BANCROFT 
LIBRARY 


BANCROFT 
LIBRARY 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 


THROUGH 

WONDERLAND 


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if 


THROUGH    SERVICE    TO     GARDINER 
GATEWAY 


The  Northern  Pacific  Railway  provides  through 
standard  sleeping  cars  daily,  during  the  Yellowstone 
Park  season,  from  eastern  and  western  terminals  direct 
to  Gardiner  Station.  Through  sleeping-car  service  or 
continuous  sleeping-car  service  is  thus  afforded  from 
Chicago,  St.  Louis,  Kansas  City,  Omaha,  Denver,  St. 
Paul,  Minneapolis,  Duluth,  Superior,  Butte,  Helena, 
Spokane,  Tacoma,  Seattle,  Portland  and  Puget  Sound 
points,  to  the  Official  Entrance. 

The  Park  season  is  from  the  middle  of  June  to 
the  middle  of  September,  and  low  rates  of  fare  are 
effective  daily  for  the  Park  trip  by  itself  or  in  connec- 
tion with  the  Pacific  Coast  or  eastern  trip.  Full  details 
will  be  promptly  furnished  by  any  Northern  Pacific 
Representative,  as  listed  on  page  70. 

All  Agents  sell  tickets  via  the  Northern  Pacific 
Railway — the  "Scenic  Highway  through  the  Land  of 
Fortune." 


KDINER  GATEWAY 


YELLOWSTONE  PARK 


THROUGH         WONDERLAND 


Grand  Canyon  of  the  Yellowstone  from  Grand  View— Inspiration  Point  in  middle  Dist 


'   0 
•£—,;*. 


R.AILWAY 


YELLOWSTONE  is  the  largest  of  our  national  and  state 
parks.  It  comprises  3,312  square  miles,  exclusive  of 
the  forest  reserve  adjoining  it.  It  is  difficult  to  easily 
enumerate  the  variety  of  nature's  phenomena  found  in 
this  wide  domain.  One  who  indulges  in  plain,  simple  narrative 
description,  lays  himself  open  to  the  charge  of  romancing  to 
those  who  have  never  seen  the  Park,  as  did  the  old  guides 
and  frontiersmen  of  fifty  years  ago  when  they  cautiously  told 
of  the  wonders  to  be 
found  among  the  moun- 
tains. Comparisons  with 
other  similar  parks  are 
difficult  as  there  are 
no  legitimate  grounds 
for  comparison. 
The  Yosemite,  Grand 
Canon  of  the  Colora- 
do, Niagara,  and  the 
Yellowstone,  have 
little  in  common. 

Early  Explorers 

The  Indians,  of 
course,  were  more  or 
less  familiar  with  the 
park  country.  They 

did  not  frequent  it,  in  general,  however,  although  a  band  of 
Sheep-eaters,  so  called,  of  the  Shoshonean  family,  were  found 
living  there  when  the  whites  first  occupied  it.  They  have 
long  since  passed  on  to  the  "happy  hunting  grounds." 

The  first  white  man  to  see  and  know  of  any  portion  of 
what  is  now  the  Yellowstone  Park,  was  John  Colter.  Colter, 
who  lived  a  life  of  adventure,  had  been  a  member  of  the 


Beaver  Dam 
'n  the  Park — 
the  Lure  of  the 
Old  Trappers 


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Lewis  and  Clark  Expedition  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia 
River,  and  on  the  return,  in  1806,  severed  his  connection  with 
those  explorers  below  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone  River  at 
the  Mandan  towns,  and  made  his  way  to  the  headwaters  of  the 
Yellowstone.  Remaining  there  during  the  winter  of  1806-7, 
he  then  started  for  St.  Louis  and  met  a  brigade  of  fur  trappers 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Platte  River,  bound  for  the  upper  Yellow- 
stone. He  was  persuaded  to  again  retrace  his  steps  and,  on 
a  mission  to  the  Indians  during  the  summer  of  1807,  he 
traversed  by  Indian  trail  at  least  the  eastern  part  of  the 
Yellowstone  Park  country,  and  the  map  in  the  Lewis  and 
Clark  report,  published  in  1814,  shows  "Colter's  Route  in 
1807." 

The  next  known  of  the  region,  publicly,  was  in  1842,  when 
an  article  describing  the  geysers  was  printed  in  the  Western 
Literary  Messenger  of  Buffalo,  N.  Y.,  and  copied  in  the  Wasp 
of  Nauvoo,  111.  The  contributor  was  Warren  Angus  Ferris, 
an  employe  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  who,  with  two 
Pend  d'Oreille  Indians,  visited  one  of  the  geyser  areas  in  1834. 
This  article  seems  to  have  been  the  first  one  printed  descrip- 
tive of  any  part  of  the  Park  region. 

Many  of  the  old  mountain  men  connected  with  the  fur 
companies  in  the  period  before  the  Civil  War  knew  of  the 
locality.  James  Bridger,  a  noted  guide  and  explorer,  often 
told  of  the  geysers  and  hot  springs.  Bridger  was  a  wonderful 
mountaineer,  probably  had  no  superior  as  such,  knew  the 
Park  region  thoroughly,  and  told  marvelous  stories  of  it. 
Some  of  his  tales  were  true  enough,  others  were  pervaded  by 
a  strongly  imaginative  quality,  so  much  so  that  every  thing 
he  stated  regarding  this  locality  was  for  many  years  entirely 
disbelieved  by  most  persons. 


Joseph  L.  Meek,  a  contemporary  of  Carson,  Bridger,  and 
other  noted  trappers  and  guides,  and  who  bore  an  important 
part  in  the  early  political  history  of  Oregon,  also  saw  a  part  of 
the  Park  region  in  the  early  '305. 

James  DeLacy,  a  civil  engineer  of  Montana,  conducted  a 
prospecting  party  across  the  Park  in  1863,  and  Messrs.  Folsom 
and  Cook  of  Montana  made  a  tour  of  the  country  in  1869. 
The  real  discovery  of  the  Park  came  in  1870,  when  a  company 
of  Montana 
gentlemen, 
with  Gen.  H. 
D.  Washburn, 
surveyor  gen- 
eral of  Mon- 
tana, as  their 
leader,     made 

Northern  Pacific  Station 
an  extended        at  Uulngston.  Montana 

tour  of  the  region.  Among  those  constituting  this  party  besides 
General  Washburn,  were  Samuel  T.  Hauser,  Warren  C. 
Gillette,  Nathaniel  P.  Langford,  Benjamin  Stickney,  Cornelius 
Hedges,  Truman  C.  Everts,  and  Walter  Trumbull,  a  son  of 
Lyrnan  Trumbull  then  a  United  States  Senator  from  Illinois. 
These  were  all  prominent  citizens  of  Montana,  and  there  were 
several  others  less  generally  known.  Messrs.  Hauser,  Stickney, 
Gillette,  and  Langford  are  still  alive.  A  small  escort  of 
United  States  cavalrymen  from  Fort  Ellis,  near  Bozeman, 
under  Lieut.  Gustavus  C.  Doane,  accompanied  the  expedition. 
From  Lieutenant  Doane 's  prominence  in  the  exploration  the 
expedition  is  often  referred  to  as  the  Washburn- Doane 
expedition.  Doane's  report  of  the  expedition  stands,  and 
always  will,  as  a  classic  in  all  the  literature  pertaining  to  the 
Park. 

Mr.  Langford,  General  Washburn,  and  Mr.  Hedges  kept 


THtL-OUGH         WONDEFCLAND 


Six-horse  Park  Stage-coach — Between  Gardiner  and  Mammoth  Hot  Springs 


Gardiner  River  and  Canyon — Eagle  Nest  Crag  seen  at  rig 


AIL  WAY 


diaries  of  their  experiences,  that  of  Mr.  Langford  being  kept 
in  much  detail.  (General  Washburn's  was  comparatively 
brief. 

To  the  Washburn  party  is  to  be  credited  the  initiative 
which  resulted  in  establishing  the  region  as  a  National  Park. 
Those  who  took  the  most  active  part  in  the  movement  were 
Messrs.  Langford  and  Hedges  aided  by  Wm.  H.  Clagett,  the 
delegate  to  Congress  from  Montana.  Dr.  F.  V.  Hayden,  the 
geologist,  at  first  disbelieved  in  the  idea,  but  eventually  threw 
the  weight  of  his  influence  in  its  favor. 

The  only  criticism  now  heard  regarding  the  segregation 
of  this  domain  is  that  not  enough  country  was  set  aside.  The 
entire  Jackson  Lake  and  Teton  Range  region,  since  made 
into  a  forest  reserve,  should  have  been  included  and  should  yet 
be  added  to  the  Park  proper.  Regarding  the  wisdom  of  the 
diversion  of  this  vast  area  to  park  and  timber  reserve  pur- 
pcses,  John  Muir  well  voices  all  intelligent  comment  when  he 
writes : 

"The  withdrawal  of  this  large  tract  from  the  public  domain 
did  no  harm,  to  anyone;  for  its  height  6,000  to  13,000  feet 
above  the  sea,  and  its  thick  mantle  of  volcanic  rocks  prevent 
its  ever  being  available  for  agriculture  or  mining,  while  on  the 
other  hand  its  geographical  position,  reviving  climate,  and 
wonderful  scenery  combine  to  make  it  a  grand  health,  pleasure, 
and  study  resort,  a  gathering  place  for  travelers  from  all  the 
world." 

Mr.  Folsom,  of  the  Folsom-Cook  party  of  1869,  first  gave 
expression  to  the  idea  of  creating  a  national  park  here.  But 
as  this  suggestion  never  reached  the  public,  no  results  came 
from  it,  and  the  suggestion  which  did  eventuate  in  action  was 
made  by  Cornelius  Hedges  of  the  Washburn  party  near  the 
close  of  the  exploration  of  1870. 

Major  Sir  Rose  Lambart   Price,  Bart.,  an   English  world- 


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traveler,  visited  the  Park  and  adjoining  region  in  1897.  He 
published,  in  London,  a  book  called  A  Summer  on  the  Rockies, 
in  which,  among  other  things,  he  writes: 

"But  what  a  Park  it  is!  What  a  playground  for  a  nation! 
Where,  in  any  other  country  in  the  world,  is  there  anything 
like  it?  It  embraces  in  its  limits  *.  *  *  mountains  from 
ten  thousand  to  fourteen  thousand  feet  above  the  sea — one 
valley  which  has  an  elevation  of  not  less  than  six  thousand 
feet;  the  geysers  outclass  anything  of  the  kind  in  the  known 
world.  There  are  over  thirty-five  that  throw  a  column  of  hot 
water  from  thirty  to  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  the  air,  at 
intervals  of  from  one  minute  to  fourteen  days,  and  often 
longer. 

"The  Grand  Canon  of  the  Yellowstone,  twenty  miles  long, 
with  an  average  depth  of  twelve  hundred  feet,  unsurpassed  for 
brilliancy  of  coloring  by  anything  in  nature;  the  Mammoth 
Hot  Springs,  with  their  colored  terraces;  cliffs  of  volcanic 
glass;  waterfalls;  mountains  of  petrifications ;  hills  of  brim- 
stone; everlastingly  snow-clad  peaks— all  these,  with  many 
more,  too  numerous  to  mention,  are  embraced  in  the  people's 
Park,  and  over  a  thousand  miles  of  some  of  the  best  trout 
fishing  in  the  world  is  thrown  in  to  help  them  enjoy  it.  Our 
American  cousins  have  every  right  to  feel  proud  of  their 
magnificent  playground,  and  they  have  conferred  a  benefit  on 
the  entire  world  by  preserving  it  in  its  entirety  for  the  national 
use." 

This  is  a  calm  and  deliberate  statement  of  a  much  traveled 
Englishman,  and  it  coincides,  practically,  with  the  expressions 
of  all  travelers.  The  figures  here  given  have  been  slightly 
changed  from  the  originals  to  meet  the  facts  as  more  accurately 
known  since  the  book  was  written. 


The    Climate  of  the  Park 


It  is  not  alone  as  a  land  of  geysers,  waterfalls,  hot  springs, 
canons,  and  kindred  phenomena  that  the  Park  is  worthy  of 
exploitation.  General  H.  M.  Chittenden,  retired,  well  says: 
"In  the  broadest  and  highest  sense  the  Park  is  a  sanatorium 
which  rarely  fails  to  give  substantial  benefits  to  those  who 
seek  them."  The  variety  of  altitude,  ranging  from  about 
6,200  feet  at  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  to  7,800  feet  at  the  Grand 
Canon ;  the  clear,  pure,  exhilarating  atmosphere ;  the  warm 
days  and  cool  nights;  the  utter  absence  of  fogs  and  marshy 
exhalations  make  the  Park  one  of  the  most  desirable  health 
resorts  in  the  country. 

The  mean  temperatures  for  the  months  of  the  tourist 
season,  averaged  from  nearly  twenty  years'  observations, 
are  as  follows :  June/  54°  F. ;  July,  62°  F.;  August,  62°  F. ; 
September,  52°  F.  The  days,  of  course,  are  .warm,  but  not 
oppressively  so,  and  the  heat  that  is  a  serious  affliction  in 
many  of  our  cities  is  a  perfect  delight  in  this  cool  and  rarefied 
region . 

The  waters  are  pure,  there  are  no  prevalent  diseases,  and 
the  combination  of  health  conditions,  good  hotels,  sight-seeing, 
fishing,  and  other  recreations  is  probably  unknown  elsewhere. 

While  the  hot  waters  of  the  Park  have  never  been  particu- 
larly recommended  for  curing  human  ills,  this  feature  of 
the  Park  having  been  overshadowed  and  neglected,  they  are 
known  to  be  quite  efficacious  in  many  ways  and  are  so 
acknowledged  by  physicians  who  have  investigated  them. 

Even  as  a  fall  and  winter  resort,  as  General  Chittenden 
says,  the  Park  would  prove  a  better  place  for  a  great  many 
persons  living  in  northern  climes  than  are  noted  resorts  in 
other  parts  of  the  country.  In  a  word,  the  Park  approaches 
ideality  as  a  place  for  rest,  recreation,  and  healthful  out-door 
life. 


y 


•V;'.  --. 


Emigrant  Peak — Between  Livingston  and  Gardiner — 10,969  Feet  high 


PACIFIC     P^AILWAY 


The   Park   in    General 

The  care  and  superintendence  of  the  Park  rest  in  the 
Government,  the  superintendent  being  an  army  officer,  in 
charge  of  several  troops  of  cavalry.  The  latter  continually 
patrol  the  Park  to  prevent  violation  of  its  rules  and  regula- 
tions. A  United  States  commissioner,  to  execute,  the  laws, 
is  also  resident  there. 

Road  building  is  very  expensive  and  is  an  engineering  prob- 
lem of  importance  and  difficulty.  For 
years  the  congressional  appro- 
priations were1  small 
and  the  efforts 
at  road  mak- 
ing were  super- 
ficial, and  the 
roads  themselves, 
necessarily,  tenta- 
tive, or  temporary 
ones.  With  ample 
appropriations 
in  recent  years 
and  the  expen- 
ditures under  the  direction  of  an  officer  of  the  United  States 
Engineer  Corps,  a  well  devised  system  of  roads,  including  neces- 
sary and  often  very  expensive  viaducts  and  bridges,  has  been 
constructed.  Xo  railways  or  electric  lines  or  automobiles  are 
allowed  within  the  Park  limits,  and  the  usual  tourist  route 
aggregates  more  than  140  miles  of  stage-coach  travel.  Auto- 
mobiles are  prohibited  within  the  Park. 

Within  recent  years  the  Government  has  expended 
$1,000,000  in  betterments,  and  the  result  is  a  never-ending 
surprise  to  those  who  see  the  Park  for  the  iirst  time. 


Six-Hnrse  Park  Cnach 
over  the  Government- 
Kept  Roads 


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Instances  of  expensive  road  construction  are  noticed  in 
the  new  concrete  viaduct  and  reduced  grade  through  Golden 
Gate,  costing  $10,000;  the  beautiful  new  Melan  arch  concrete 
bridge  across  the  Yellowstone  River  at  the  Grand  Canon, 
which  cost  $20,000;  the  new  mountain  road  from  the  Grand 
Canon  through  Dunraven  Pass  to  Tower  Fall  and  Mammoth 
Hot  Springs  with  a  branch  from  the  pass  to  the  summit  of 
Mount  Washburn.  This  road,  which  cost  several  thousand 
dollars  a  mile,  was  a  much  more  expensive  and  difficult  piece 
of  work  than  was  anticipated,  and  it  provides  the  means  for 
making  the  finest  side  trip  in  the  Park — the  trip  to  Mount 
Washburn.  From  the  mountain  a  comprehensive  view  of 
the  Park  is  obtained. 

Park  Transportation 

The  transportation  facilities  found  here  are  a  particular 
feature  of  Wonderland.  For  Yellowstone  Park  travel  a 
specially-designed  stage-coach  was  constructed  by  the  well 
known  Concord  builders,  which  combines  the  many  admirable 
details  of  the  old-style  coach  with  new  features,  making 
quite  a  different  and  improved  means  of  carriage  of  it.  The 
closeness,  stuffiness,  and  the  jerkiness  of  the  old-style 
coach  are  replaced  by  a  large,  roomy,  splendid  wagon,  afford- 
ing most  comfortable  and  enjoyable  riding  as  it  goes  whirling 
along  the  hard,  macadamized,  dustless  roads  of  the  Park. 

Between  Gardiner  and  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  a  special 
type  of  Concord  coach  is  used.  This  is  a  very  large,  open,  six- 
horse  coach  most  substantially  built,  having  seats  also  on  the 
roof,  and  with  a  capacity  of  from  twenty  to  thirty- four  persons. 
It  is  a  modified  tally-ho  and  much  more  comfortable. 

The  regular  coaches  used  south  of  Mammoth  Hot  Springs 
are  of  different  sizes,  but  are  all  four-horse  coaches,  open  at 
the  sides  for  sight-seeing,  and  comfortable.  They  seat  from 


NOFL/THEFCN      PACIFIC 


f  AY 


eight  to  eleven  persons,  including  those  on  the  driver's  seat. 
As  in  regular  stage-coaches  the  driver's  seat  is  on  the  outside 
over  the  boot.  While,  as  stated,  these  coaches  ade 

very  open,  they  are  supplied  with  heavy  canvas  curtains  for 
protection  against  the  elements  when  necessary.  A  limited 
amount  of  hand-baggage  is  carried  in  the  boot  and  in  the  bag- 
gage rack  at  the  rear  of  the  coach. 

There  are  also  top  surreys  and  mountain  wagons  in  use— 
two-horse  wagons  carrying  from  three  to  five  persons  each. 
For  special  or  private  parties  these  wagons  are  very  satis- 
factory, and  are  much  sought  after. 


are  not  run  in  the  old-fashioned  way, 
!     horses.    Each  vehicle,  as  it  leaves 
Springs,  has  its  load  of  tourists 


These  coaches 
with  relays    of 
Mammoth  Hot 
arranged  for 
the  complete 
trip,  and  it  re- 
tains the  same 
d  r  iver     and 
horses    for   the 
Park  tour. 

With  the  in- 
cessant change 
and  variety 
found  in  nearly 
every  mile  of 

travel  in  the  Park,  this  coaching  trip  is  far  and  away  the  finest 
one  in  the  United  States  and  is  altogether  in  a  class  by '  itself. 
The  ever-changing  panorama  of  mountains,  lakes,  canons, 
rivers,  hot  pools,  forests,  geysers,  cascades,  and  wild  animals, 
most  of  them  in  an  infinite  variety,  ending  with  a  fine  hotel 
and  rest  at  the  end  of  each  day's  ride,  distinguishes  this 


One  of  the  Big  Coaches 
between  Qardiner  and 
Mammoth  Hot  Springs 


THR-OUGH         WONDEFCLAN 


Old  Faithful  Inn — A  unique  Hotel  Home  in  a  unique  Land 


el  at  Yellowstone  Lake— Overlooking  Lake  and  Mountai 


NOP^TH 


PACIFIC     R.  AIL  WAY 


coaching  trip  from  an}*  other  and  makes  it  a  memorable  one 
to  each  and  every  one  fortunate  enough  to  enjoy  it. 

The  number  of  miles  embraced  in  a  day's  drive  ranges 
from  nine  to  forty.  On  each  full  day's  drive  a  stop  is  made 
at  noon  for  rest  and  luncheon  at  one  of  the  lunch  stations. 
In  this  way  those  least  used  to  travel  are  able  to  thoroughly 
enjoy  the  ride  and  with  little  or  .no  fatigue,  particularly  in 
recent  years  since  the  roads  have  been  so  completely  recon- 
structed and  improved.  More  than  a  hundred  miles  of  the 
roads  are  now  regularly  sprinkled  daily.  This  is  done  by 
means  of  large,  specially-built  sprinkling- wagons  drawn  by 
four  horses.  These  wagons  start  out  every  morning  in 
advance  of  the  coaches  and  are  under  control  of  the  govern- 
ment officials. 

The  Hotels 

One  of  the  most  enjoyable  accompaniments  of  the  Park 
tour  is  the  system  of  hotels  found  there. 

At  each  of  the  five  principal  points,  or  centers  of  interest, 
in  the  Park,  the  Yellowstone  Park  Hotel  Company  has  a  large 
and  modern  hotel  equipped  with  baths,  steam  heat,  electricity, 
etc.  These  hostelries,  utterly  unlike  in  architecture,  have  a 
uniform  capacity  for  at  least  250  guests,  some  of  them  much 
exceeding  this  number.  Besides  the  five  hotels,  which  are 
located  at  Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  Lower  Geyser  Basin,  Upper 
Geyser  Basin,  the  outlet  of  Yellowstone  Lake  and  the  Grand 
Canon,  there  are  good  lunch  stations  at  Norris  Geyser  Basin 
and  the  \vest  arm  of  Yellowstone  Lake. 

The  hotel  at  Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  a  very  large  one,  is 
within  convenient  walking  distance  of  the  renowned  colored 
terraces  with  their  beautiful  hot  springs. 

The  lunch  station  at  Norris  Geyser  Basin  stands  on  an 
eminence  overlooking  the  weird  scene  below. 


Mr    J 

;">;*  $';M-'l 
•;?.  -> 


The  Fountain  Hotel  at  Lower  Geyser  Basin,  is  a  very 
comfortable  and  capacious  hotel  home  within  a  short  distance 
of  the  Fountain  Geyser  and  the  Mammoth  Paint  Pots.  The 
hot  sulphur  water  of  one  of  the  springs  is  piped  into  the  hotel 
and  is  supremely"  pleasant  for  bathing  purposes. 

At  the  west  arm  of  Yellowstone  Lake  just  across  the 
Continental  Divide  there  is  a  new  and  commodious  lunch 
station. 

The  large  hotel  at  the  Grand  Canon  is  situated  upon  a  hill 
near  the  Lower,  or  Great  Fall,  at  the  head  of  the  canon. 
From  it  one  can  easily  walk  to  the  Fall  or  to  Point  Lookout 
on  the  brink  of  the  canon.  Grand  View  is  not  very  far  dis- 
tant, the  Upper  Fall  not  more  than  a  mile  away,  the  roads 
and  trails  are  good,  and  pedestrianism  is  a  pleasure. 

Old  Faithful  Inn 

Old  Faithful  Inn  is  the  creation  of  an  architectural  genius. 
It  is  almost  as  great  an  attraction  for  Yellowstone  Park  as 
the  wonderful  geyser  phenomena  or  the  profound  Grand  Canon. 

It  is  easy  to  say  that 
the  imposing  building 
is  made  of  boulders 
and   logs,    but   this 
does  not  describe  the 
quaint  and  marvel- 
ous manipulation 
and  blending  of  these 
materials.       The 
forests  of  the  Park 
abound    in     peculiar 
tree  growths.     All  sorts 
of  irregularly-formed  limbs  and 
bulging  boles  are  to  be  found,  and  these  have 


corner  Of 
0/d  Faiihful  '"" 


been  utilized  wherever  possible,  and  to  them  does  the  Inn 
owe  much  of  its  quaint  originality.  These  abnormal  growths 
are  in  perfect  keeping  with  the  unusual  character  of  this 
Wonderland,  and  Old  Faithful  Inn  harmonizes  completely 
with  its  strange  surroundings. 

The  Inn  is  not  in  the  least  a  freaky  affair,  pertinent  to  its 
locality.  It  is  a  thoroughly  modern  and  artistic  structure 
in  every  respect — modern  in  its  appointments  and  artistic 
in  the  carrying  out  of  an  unconventional  and  original  scheme 
The  Inn  and  its  furnishings  required  an  expenditure  approach- 
ing $200,000.  Electric  lights  and  bells,  new  and  unique  room 
furnishings,  rugs  on  room  floors  and  in  the  large  halls,  steam 
heat,  good  fire  protection,  dormers,  French  windows,  massive 
porches  with  rustic  seats  and  swings,  and  a  mammoth  porte 
cocherc  are  a  few  of  the  many  noteworthy  features.  The 
office,  or  reception  hall,  is  a  striking  one.  This  spacious  room 
is  seventy-five  feet  square  and  extends  upward  ninety-two 
feet  to  the  peak  of  the  roof.  An  enormous  chimney  con- 
taining eight  fireplaces  stands  at  one  corner.  This  is  con- 
structed of  lava  blocks  of  assorted  shapes  and  sizes,  many  of 
them  of  enormous  bulk.  A  massive  clock  is  attached  to  one 
face  of  the  chimney,  and  back  of  it  is  a  snug  and  cosy  writing- 
room  recess.  The  chimney  is  fourteen  feet  square  and  at  each 
side  is  a  huge  fireplace  and  at  each  corner  a  small  one,  and 
fires  of  big  logs  are  kept  going  constantly  in  one  or  more 
of  the  large  fireplaces. 

Large  balconies  of  logs  surround  this  great  court  on  three 
sides  on  the  second  and  third  stories,  and  other  and  smaller 
balconies  are  found  still- higher  up,  while,  perched  under  the 
roof  at  almost  the  tip- top  of  the  ceiling  is  a  small  crow's  nest 
sort  of  an  open  log-hut  room. 

The  dining-room  is  a  very  large,  high  room  with  roof  ceiling 
well  trussed.  It  is  sixty  feet  square,  with  another  huge  lava 


\: 


^W" 


^ 


Both  Black-tail  and  White-tail  Deer  roam  at  will  through  the  Park 


^rJ;T';  ^K^ 

y&*&- .    / 

.  ^ 


PACIFIC     FCAILWAY 


My  Lady's  Boudoir 
Old  Faithful  Inn 


chimney  and  fireplace  and  with  very  large,  tine  plate-glass 
windows.  From  nearly  all  of  the  latter  the  hourly  eruptions 
of  Old  Faithful  Geyser  can  be  seen. 

Some  of  the  bedrooms  are  of  log  structure,  others  are  of 
natural,  unplaned, 
unpainted  pine,  the 
effect  being  unique 
and  pleasing.  The 
furnishings  are  of 
the  Arts  and 
Crafts  style. 

The  hotel  is  so 
situated  that  most 
of  the  Upper  Geyser 
Basin  proper  is 
within  range  of  it. 
distant  eruptions  of 
Grand,  Giant,  Riverside ,  Splendid,  and  other  geysers  can  be 
seen  more  or  less,  while  the  eruptions  of  all  -the  geysers 
between  the  Castle  and  Old  Faithful  are  plainly  visible. 
The  view  from  Old  Faithful  Inn  is  certainly  one  of  the  most 
surprising  and  interesting  to  be  found  from  any  hotel  in  the 
world.  This  applies  with  particular  force  to  the  view  from  the 
search-light  platform  at  the  very  peak  of  the  roof.  'Each  night 
this  search-light  is  operated,  being  turned  upon  such  geysers 
(particularly  Old  Faithful)  as  may  be  in  eruption,  and  upon 
the  bears  prowrling  at  the  edge  of  the  woods.  A  geyser  seen 
in  eruption  under  the  search-light  is  a  most  remarkable 
sight. 

Tourists  should,  without  fail,  arrange  to  remain  several 
days,  or  even  longer,  at  Old  Faithful  Inn  and  enjoy  a  unique 
experience  in  a  unique  hotel  in  a  unique  land. 


V»r/) 


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A    V     :'c^^^:Al^^^5^ 
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r-X&&j&{ 

J  •;  '•  ^ 


The   Lake  Colonial   Hotel 

As  perfect  of  its  kind  and  as  complete  in  every  way  as 
Old  Faithful  Inn,  is  the  Colonial  Hotel  at  the  outlet  of  Yellow- 
stone Lake.  Here,  facing  Yellowstone  Lake,  stands  a  most 
stately,  dignified  building  of  colonial  architecture,  massive 
and  imposing  in  size,  with  three  high-columned  porches  and 
a  continuous  veranda  along  the  entire  front,  the  whole  beauti- 
fully illuminated  with  electric  lights  at  night.  The  hotel 
stands  back  from  the  water  but  a  short  distance,  and  its  large 
front  porch  commands  a  view  of  the  entire  lake,  twenty  miles 
in  length  with  the  mountains  on  each  side  of  it.  Prominent 
among  these  peaks  are  Mounts  Langford,  Doane,  and  Steven- 
son on  the  east;  Colter  Peak,  Turret,  and  Table  mountains 
to  the  southeast  of  the  lake;  and  Mount  Sheridan  almost 
directly  south  from  the  hotel  and  twenty  miles  away. 

The  reception-room,  or  office,  of  this  structure  is  of  very 
large  size,  finished  in  California  redwood,  electrically  lighted 
at  night,  and  is  furnished  with  large  floor  rugs  and  all  kinds 
of  easy  chairs  of  the  Arts  and  Crafts  pattern.  It  is  a  place 
where  one  feels  wonderfully  at  home  from  the  start,  and  the 
comfort  and  repose  suggested  grow  upon  the  traveler.  Steam 
heat,  electric  lights,  baths,  and  the  usual  accessories  of  modern 
hotels  are  of  course  to  be  found,  and  the  room  furnishings  are 
all  that  can  be  desired. 

Lake,  hotel,  and  mountains — distant  and  near — form  a 
rare  and  delightful  combination,  and  one  can,  with  utmost 
pleasure,  while  away  a  dreamy  day,  or  week,  or  month,  as  one's 
inclination  prompts.  This  hotel  is  the  largest  in  the  Park 
and  has  accommodations  for  450  guests. 


The  Animal  Kingdom 

The  Park  is  really  the  only  place  where  the  public  in  general 
can  see,  without  cost,  the  animals  of  the  forest  and  the  wilds 
in  their  natural  state.  After  many  years  the  elk,  deer,  ante- 
lope, and  mountain  sheep  have  become  acquainted  with  the 
fact  that  in  Yellowstone  Park  man  does  not  intend  harm 
toward  them.  The  bears  learned  this  long  ago.  Now  the 
other  animals  show  little  timidity  and  it  is  a  most  delectable 
sight,  as  the  coaches  drive  along,  to  see  an  elk  or  two  slaking 
their  thirst  in  the  stream,  or  several  deer  quietly  feeding  in 
the  woods  near  the  road. 

The  effort  to  increase  the  buffalo  herd  by  outside  pur- 
chases and  to  place  them  where  they  can  be  fed  and  protected 
is  meeting  with  success.  They  are  now  kept  in  a  large  pasture 
on  Lamar  River  and  appear  to  take  kindly  to  the  situation. 
The  new  herd,  numbering  twenty-one,  was  purchased  in  the 
fall  of  1902,  and  it  now  numbers  nearly  one  hundred. 

There  are  probably  about  2,000  antelope  in  the  Park, 
most  of  them  living  on  and  around  Mount  Everts  near  Mam- 
moth Hot  Springs,  and  increasing  in  numbers.  Between  100 

and     2  O  C  Antelope  grazing  on 

mountain  the  A'f<"fa  Plai" 

at  Entrance  Arch 
Sheep    are  Gardiner 

supposed 
also  to 
have  their 
habitat 
on  Mount 
Ever  ts. 
Both 
sheep  and 
antelope 
are  more  wary  than  the  other  animals  and  the  former  disap- 


FTfe*: 

«  *^**ttv-'-,"'i-*£:-'>-t-"--'.--  - 


S^^aSS^.  "     -. 


THROUGH         WOND!    POLAND 


A  Park  Grizzly  Bear  watching  the  Tourists 


•PS- 


NOFCTHEFC 


pear  in  the  late  spring,  and  just  where  they  pass  their  summer 
vacation  is  not  definitely  kno\vn.  In  the  fall,  winter,  and 
spring  both  antelope  and  sheep  are  found  in  large  numbers 
on  the  hills  and  flats  about  Gardiner  and  Mammoth  Hot 
Springs.  To  some  extent  they  are  fed  hay  by  the  authori- 
ties at  Fort  Yellowstone  in  the  winter  and  early  spring, 
which  serves  to  render  them  less  timorous  and  to  domesticate 
them  in  some  degree.  Since  the  establishment  of  the  practice 
of  thus  feeding  the  animals,  the  antelope  in  gradually 
increasing  number  have  remained  on  the  alfalfa  flat  within  the 
Park  near  Gardiner  during  the  summer,  where  they  may  be 
seen  by  tourists.  The  number  of  deer  is  increasing  and 
the  beautiful  creatures,  during  the  winter  months,  like  the 
sheep  and  antelope,  become  a  very  familiar  feature  of  the 
hills  and  parade  ground  at  Fort  Yellowstone,  or  Mammoth 
Hot  Springs.  The  deer,  perhaps,  are  the  least  timid  of  any 
of  the  animals,  and  to  see  them  unconcernedly  grazing 
around  the  hotels  is  indeed  a  sight  to  be  remembered.  As  no 
dogs  are  allowed  in  the  Park  there  is  nothing  to  molest 
them. 

It  is  the  elk,  however,  that  throng  the  Park  in  countless 
thousands,  and  during  the  summer  they  are  not  infrequently 
seen  by  the  tourists  from  the  coaches.  They  seclude  them- 
selves more  or  less,  however,  in  the  valleys  and  timber.  They 
are  to  be  found  by  hundreds  around  Shoshone  Lake  and  in 
Harden  Valley,  and  there  are  bands  of  them  that  frequent 
the  upper  parts  of  Mount  Washburn  and  Dunraven  Peak. 
Those  who  wish  to  see  large  bodies  of  elk,  young  and  old,  can 
easily  do  so  by  riding  on  horseback  a  few  miles  up  Alum 
Creek,  from  either  the  Grand  Canon  or  the  Yellowstone  Lake 
Hotel.  There,  in  the  upper  part  of  Hayden  Valley,  at  the 
base  of  Mary's  Mountain,  there  are,  during  the  tourist  season, 
many  hundreds  of  them,  mostly  dams  with  their  young. 


The  bears  are  much  in  evidence  near  most  of  the  hotels 
and  any  evening  or  morning,  with  rare  exceptions,  from  one 
to  twenty  or  more  may  be  seen  eating  from  the  refuse  piles 
near  the  hotels.  They  are  extremely  interesting,  and  if 
tourists  do  not  threaten  or  interfere  with  them,  they  are  not 
in  the  least  dangerous.  Without  being  ^fjBti^^^ 
intrusive  tourists  may  approach  suffi- 
ciently near  to  enjoy  their  antics  and 
movements  without  the  slightest  danger. 
While  this  is  true  the  bears,  it  must  be 
borne  in  mind,  are  yet  wild  ones  and 
resent  familiarity.  The  tourist  season  is' 
a  time  of  feasting  for  them  and  they  seem 
to  understand  it  and  have  become  quite 
domesticated,  but  they  are  wild  bears  still  and  this  fact 
should  .be  remembered. 

The  bears  are  found  more  particularly  at  the  Fountain 
Hotel,  Old  Faithful  Inn,  the  Lake,  and  Grand  Canon  hotels. 
At  most  of  them  the  black  and  brown  bears  are  principally 
seen,  but  at  the  lake  and  canon  there  are  also  many  grizzlies. 
Tourists  have  little  difficulty,  as  a  rule,  in  kodaking  the  ani- 
mals, and  now  and  then  some  of  them  seem  to  consciously 
pose  for  their  pictures. 

In  portions  of  the  Park,  naturally  those  somewhat  retired 
and  secluded,  there  are  many  beavers  and  they  are  flourishing 
and  increasing.  Perhaps  the  point  where  these  industrious 
animals  may  most  conveniently  be  seen  by  visitors  to  the  Park 
is  over  near  Tower  Fall,  where  Yancey  formerly  lived,  where 
there  are  several  colonies  of  them.  Here,  among  the  brooks 
in  this  beautiful  part  of  the  Park  they  may  be  found,  with 
their  dams,  houses,  ponds,  and  slides,  and  one  may  easily, 
in  the  morning  or  evening,  see  them  swimming  about  in  the 

26 


water  or  cutting  down  trees  on  land,  laying  in  their  store  of 
food. 

At  Beaver  Lake  near  Obsidian  Cliff  beaver  dams  and  a 
beaver  house  may  be  seen  by  all  tourists. 

A  Trout  Preserve 

As  a  place  where  one  may  indulge  in  angling  at  little  or  no 
expense  or  hardship,  the  Park  probably  ranks  at  the  head. 
In  1890  the  United  States  Fish  Commission  began  stocking 
the  waters  of  the  Park.  Since  that  year  about  2,000,000  trout 
fry  have  been  "planted"  in  the  Park  lakes  and  streams  and  these 
have  greatly  multiplied.  These  plants  have  comprised  lake, 
black  spotted,  Loch  Leven,  rainbow,  Von  Behr,  and  brook 
trout,  and  salmon  trout  are  also  found  in  Yellowstone  Lake  as 
a  natural  growth. 

From  any  of  the  hotels  one  can  easily  make  fishing  excur- 
sions, at  distances  ranging  from  a  few  rods  to  a  few  miles, 
and  find  fine  sport.  Those  who  angle  in  Yellowstone  Park 
are  under  few7  restrictions,  but  the}'  are  assumed  to  be  true 
sportsmen.  All  fish  must  be  taken  with  a  hook  and  line.  At 
Mammoth  Hot  Springs  there  are  many  streams  within  easy 
reach  where  trouting  is  excellent.  At  Xorris  Basin  fine  fishing 
is  found  in  the  Gibbon  River  and  its  branches.  From  Lower 
Geyser  Basin,  Nez  Perce  Creek  affords  good  fishing,  and  at 
the  junction  of  the  Firehole  and  Gibbon  rivers,  grayling 
may  be  caught. 

At  Upper  Geyser  Basin  trout  can  be  taken  anywhere  in 
the  Firehole  River,  even  though  it  be  largely  composed  of 
water  from  the  geysers.  It  is  a  rather  peculiar  experience 
to  angle  in  warm  geyser  waters  and  draw  forth  gamy,  firm, 
well-flavored  trout.  These  trout  have  come  down  the  Firehole 
River,  shooting  Keppler's  Cascade,  and  thrive  in  the  thermal 
waters  found  below  Old  Faithful  Geyser. 


J 


*®4i' 


Mimw 


HR.OUGH         WONDI    POLAND 


Northern  Pacific  Train  and  Entrance  Arch  at  Gardiner 


Six-horse  Coach  leaving  Gardiner  for  Tour  of  the  Park 


At  Yellowstone  Lake  the  fish  may  be  caught  either  by 
casting  or  trolling.  The  lake  trout  are  easily  caught  even  by 
those  unaccustomed  to  fishing.  For  those  who  are  adepts  at 
angling  the  most  desirable  spot  here  is  in  the  Yellowstone 
River  below  the  outlet  of  the  lake.  Boats,  and  fishing  tackle 
for  those  who  do  not  have  their  own,  can  be  procured  here. 
The  lake  itself  swarms  with  salmon  trout  and  they  are  abun- 
dant in  the  river. 

At  the  Grand  Canon,  fishing  in  the  Yellowstone  River  is 
good,  a  favorite  fishing  spot  being  the  reach  of  river  between 
the  Upper  and  Lower  Falls. 

The  choice  fishing  waters ,  however,  are  near  Tower  Fall. 
At  this  point,  some  twenty  miles  from  Mammoth  Hot  Springs, 
the  Yellowstone  River  is  a  large  stream  with  wide  bends  and 
pools  and  here  the  trout  seem  to  enjoy  trying  conclusions 
with  the  angler.  This  is  the  junctioia  of  the  main  Yellowstone 
River  and  its  east  fork,  or  Lamar  River,  and  there  is  a  long 
reach  of  waters  to  cast  over. 

Let  the  to.urist  who  enjoys  trouting  by  all  means  plan  to 
spend  several  days  here  and  there  in  the  Park  for  this  purpose. 

The   Tour  of   the  Park 

In  making  a  tour  of  such  a  region  as  Yellowstone  Park,  a 
foundation  scheme,  or  schedule,  must  necessarily  be  arranged. 
Such  a  schedule  must  be  planned  to  accomplish  several  things 
as  far  as  it  can.  It  must  aim  to  enable  tourists  to  see  as  much 
as  possible  in  a  reasonable  time  at  a  reasonable  expense. 
Such  a  scheme,  however,  is  not  at  all  absolute  or  immutable, 
and  those  who  have  ample  means  and  time  are  at  liberty  to 
vary  it  as  much  as  they  may  desire.  Those  who  can  and  do 
thus  prolong  the  tour,  spending  several  days  at  each  hotel 
studying  the  peculiarities  of  each  locality,  are  gloriously 
rewarded  for  so  doing.  Such  persons  obtain  a  really  compre- 


9 

THROUGH      WONDERLAND        |Q 

hensive  idea  of  the  Park  and  its  greatness.  The  elevation 
brings  coolness  and  health,  the  great  hills  and  forests  calm 
the  mind,  and  the  roar  of  the  streams  through  mighty  canons, 
the  leaping  trout  in  the  rapids,  the  hot  water  fountains,  the 
lakes  rippling  in  the  sunlight  or  reflecting  the  cliffs  which 
edge  their  shores,  the  flower-bedecked  slopes  and  vales,  the 
iridescent  springs  gushing  from  superheated  underground 

reservoirs,  the 
graceful 
deer   and 
antelope 
feeding  at 
their 


Just  starting 

from 

Gardiner 


this  means  a  sensible,  sane   method  of  rest  and  recreation- 
means  new  blood,  new  nerves,  new  life. 

At  Gardiner  the  train  stops  at  one  side  of  a  most  unusual 
and  beautiful  log  station,  plain,  yet  artistic,  and  entirely  in 
keeping  with  its  surroundings.  On  the  other  side  stand  the 
huge  six-horse  Concord  coaches  in  a  long  line  waiting  for 
humanity  to  pile  aboard.  This  accomplished,  away  the 
coaches  go,  one  after  the  other,  around  a  pretty  little  lake 


and  through  the  massive,  time-defying  810,000  entrance  arch 
of  lava  dedicated  by  ex-President  Roosevelt,  across  the 
line  of  the  Park,  and  Wonderland  stretches  before  them. 

At  Gardiner,  facing  south,  to  the  right  rise  two  high, 
impressive  peaks,  Sepulchre  Mountain,  the  nearer,  and 
Electric  Peak.  The  latter,  11,155  feet  high,  is  cut  by  the 
boundary  line  of  the  Park.,  The  mountain  was  named  from 
peculiar  electrical  disturbances  experienced  there  by  a  party 
of  government  engineers  in  the  earl}-  days.  It  is  a  volcanic 
peak  and  is  good  for  a  stiff  bit  of  climbing  of  2,500  feet  for 
those  so- disposed. 

For  nearly  the  entire  distance  to  Mammoth  Hot  Springs, 
five  miles,  the  route  lies  alongside  the  roaring,  foaming 
Gardiner  River,  with  Eagle  Nest  Crag  and  its  nest  of  eaglets, 
or  ospreys,  crowning  the  pinnacle  towering  above  it.  It  is 
an  exhilarating  ride,  a  foretaste  of  days  to  come.  The 
stream  is  a  beautiful  one  fresh  from  mountain  snow  banks 
and — has  trout  in  it. 

Mammoth    Hot  Springs 

Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  the  first  point  in  the  tour  of  the 
Park,  is  the  administrative  center,  or  capital,  of  Wonderland. 
It  is  now  a  very  attractive  place.  A  large  green  plaza  is 
flanked  on  the  east  by  the  red-roofed  officers'  buildings  and 
the  barracks  of  Fort  Yellowstone.  This  is  certainly  one  <  >f  the 
most  attractive  of  army  posts  and  has  recently  been  much 
enlarged.  On  the  ite  side  of  the  campus  rises  Terrace 

Mountain  with  the  richly  colored,  steaming,  wonderfully 
sculptured  terraces.  To  the  north,  at  the  base  of  the  moun- 
tain, stands  the  huge  hotel  with  other  buildir  ie  occu- 
pied as  stores  and  dwellings,  others  used  by  the  Government 
and  the  Hotel  and  Transportation  Company  officials.  Facing 
the  hotel,  to  the  south  and  bounding  the  plain,  rises  Lookout 


"  •  y  /  J 


Mammoth -Hot  Springs — Colored  Terraces  and  Hotel 


Hill,  on  the  summit  of  which  can  be  seen  the  old  block- 
house built  by  Colonel  Xorris,  the  second  superintendem 
the  Park,  long  years  ago.  The  Government  has  recently 
completed  a  system  of  waterworks  here  and  has  installed -a 
much-needed  arrangement  of  concrete  sidewalks  and  macad- 
amized roads.  These,  with  the  irrigation  canals  and  their 
running  water,  have  turned  what  was  formerly  a  dreary, 
dazzling  white,  parched,  unkempt,  waste  into  a  green  and 
ornamental  plain. 

The  more  distant  view  from  the  hotel  is  very  attractive. 
To  the  south  Bunsen  Peak  rises  in  its  glory,  to  the  east  is 
Mount  Everts,  a  long,  steep-sided  plateau  with  a  lava  rampart 
capping  its  southern  extremity,  and  between  these  mountains 
are  the  canons  of  the  Gardiner  River  and  its  branches,  and 
farther  away  the  Washburn  Range.  It  all  forms  a  fine  land- 
scape. 

Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  during  the  park  season,  is  a  lively 
place.  The  throngs  of  people  coming  and  going,  the  arriving 
and  departing  coaches, the  officers  and  soldiers  in  blue  or  khaki, 
the  bugle  calls,  the  morning  and  evening  guns,  the  steaming 
terraces,  the  brilliantly-lighted  hotel  and  plaza  and  the  "hops" 
at  night,  all  combine  to  make  the  springs  a  very  gay,  inter- 
esting- place  during  the  park  season.  Tourists  should  cer- 
tainly arrange  to  remain  several  days  at  the  Springs,  and 
thus,  not  only  the  better  see  the  beauties  of  the  place,  but 
also  become  impressed  by  the  peculiar  spirit  and  fervor  that. 
sooner  or  later  possesses  the  real  nature-lover  in  this  weird 
land. 

The  wonderful  terraces  are  scattered  along  the  side  of 
Terrace  Mountain  and  yet  are  fairly  well  concentrated.  Were 
there  nothing  else  to  be  seen  in  Yellowstone  Park  the  sight 
and  study  of  these  pools  and  travertin  clifflets  with  their 


- 


THROUGH         \VONDER^LAN 


many  colors  and  rare  and  delicate  sculptures  would  repay 
one  for  the  trip.     And  they  are  but  the  first  chapter. 

Prof.  Mode  Wineman  of  Chicago  University,  writing  in  the 
Chicago  Evening  Post  of  a  "Tramp  Through  the  Yellowstone," 
in  1903,  thus  refers  to  his  first  sight  of  the  terraces  at  Mammoth 
Hot  Springs: 

"The  sky  became  overcast,  the  wind  blew,  and  it  began  to 
rain  as,   through  a  vista,  appeared   a  mass  of 
orange-colored  deposits  from  which  a  vapor 
rose.  It  was  the  Mammoth  Hot  Springs, 
with   gorgeous-colored    terraces    famed 
the  world 
over,  and 
the    va- 


Beside  the 
Gardiner  Riuer 
Eagle  Nest  Crag 
in  view 


por  -was 

steam 

from  the 

springs 

themselves 

as  the  water 

overflowed 

and  trickled  down  over  a  fairylike  water  way. 

When    I    reached    the    terrace    -Jupiter    Terrace — the    rain 

ceased,   the  clouds  parted,    the   sun   shone,    and   a   rainbow 

played  mystically  over  the  first  scene  in  Wonderland.     But 

for  a  moment  only.     The  clouds  lowered,  it  grew  dark,  and 

rain  fell  again.     Again  it  cleared,  the  sun  set  in  a  radiance 

over  the  magnificent  terraces.     Who  can  describe  the  colors 

of  these  wonderful  formations?     They  are  absolutely  unique. 

One  must  sit  in  silence  with  riveted  gaze  until  the  minute, 

marvelous   formations   reveal    their   tiny,    delicate    contours 

bathed  in  port  wine,  orange,  and  chocolate.     One  is  indeed 

fortunate  to  catch  a  glimpse  of  their  true  beauty." 


One  is  profoundly  impressed  by  the  remains  of  ancient 
springs  and  terraces  everywhere  seen.  The  area  and  magni- 
tude of  thermal  action,  past  and  present,  is  absolutely  aston- 
ishing. 

Guide-posts  and  guides  point  out  to  the  tourist,  by  name, 
the  particular  pools  and  terraces  and  the  guide-books  give  the 
interesting  facts  regarding  them.  Near  the  hotel  there  are 
several  circular,  ancient  wells,  or  holes,  that  formerly  were 
beautiful  pools.  One  of  the  most  interesting  objects  is  Liberty- 
Cap,  a  standing  monument-like  shaft  supposed  to  have  been, 
at  one  time,  a  living  geyser  like  the  Orange  Geyser.  It  is 
thirty-eight  feet  high  and,  irregularly,  about  twenty  feet  in 
diameter.  The  Giant's  Thumb,  not  far  from  Liberty  Cap, 
and  similar  thereto  but  smaller,  is  an  object  of  some  interest. 
Pulpit,  Jupiter,  Cleopatra,  Angel,  and  Narrow  Gauge  terraces, 
Orange  Geyser,  Cupid's  Cave,  Bath  Lake,  and  the  Devil's 
Kitchen  are  points  that  are  always  visited,  and  are  so  mar- 
velous and  dissimilar  as  to  point  the  folly  of  an  attempt  at 
description. 

There  are  numerous  rides,  walks,  and  drives  about  the 
springs  that  may  profitably  be  taken.  The  mouth  of  Boiling 
River,  the  very  fine  deep  canon  and  fall  of  the  Middle  Gardiner 
River  behind  Bunsen  Peak,  and  the  falls  formed  by  the  East 
Gardiner  River,  are  all  within  walking  distance  to  good  pedes- 
trians, or  they  can  be  reached  by  horseback  or  with  a  surrey. 

The  Gardiner  Canon  ranks  next  to  the  Grand  Canon  itself. 
It  is  grim,  isolated,  and  imposing,  and  its  walls  afford  wonder- 
ful examples  of  columnar  lava. 

A  fine  drive  through  a  finer  country  is  found  in  a  trip  to 
the  Tower  Fall  region.  The  road  is  a  new  one  and  opens  up 
a  very  attractive  part  of  the  Park  not  seen  in  the  usual  tour, 
besides  leading  to  the  best  fishing. 


Grand 
Canon 


Lake 

Yellowstone    Lower      Upper     Colonial    Canon 
Fall         Fall         Hotel         Hotel 


Thumb 
Lunch 
Station 


i  ill  1 


River 


lectric 
Peak 


Q 

T 

HL    lx_ 

o  u 

G  H 

W  O  N 

D  E 

R.L 

A  N 

D 

5 

Mammoth  Hot  Springs  to  Lower  Geyser  Basin 

On  the  first  day's  ride  of  the  tour,  the  hard  road  leads  past 
the  terraces,  climbing  to  Golden  Gate  by  a  light  and  regular 
grade.  On  the  way  the  Hoodoo  Rocks,  so  called,  better  the 
Travertine  Rocks,  are  passed.  These  form  a  strange,  chaotic 
spectacle.  Of  limestone,  or  calcareous  formation,  they  stand 
inclined  at  all  imaginable  angles  and  the  road  winds 
through  the  midst  of  them.  They  are  of  a  silvery 
gray  color,  which  fact  gives  name  to  Silver  Gate,  a 
characteristic  opening  or  gateway  through  them. 

Four  miles  from  the 

springs  Golden  Gate 
forms  a  narrow,  canon 
passage  between  Ter- 
race Mountain  and 

Bunsen  Peak,  the  road  * 

debouching    into    Swan  t:r 

Lake    Valley.      To    the 
north   rises  Electric 
Peak,  and  the  Gallatin 
Range,    showing    many 
distinct  peaks,   forms  a 
fine  mountain  boun- 
dary on  the  farther 
side  of  the  valley. 

The  Gate  is  a 

short,  striking,  rugged,  yellowish  canon  upon  which  the 
Government  has  spent  many  thousands  of  dollars  to  make 
it  passable.  In  so  doing  it  was  necessary  to  construct  a 
viaduct  of  steel  and  concrete  at  one  point  at  an  expense  of 
» 1 0,000.  This  is  the  only  viaduct  of  the  kind  in  the  world. 
Rustic  Fall,  at  the  extreme  head  of  the  Gate,  is  one  of  the 

38 


NOR_TH  E 


PACIFIC   R.AILWAY 


attractions  of  the  spot.      While  by  no  means  a  profound 
canon,  Golden  Gate  is  a  most  picturesque  one. 

Twelve  miles  from  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  one  of  the  most 
interesting  objects  in  the  Park  is  reached.  Obsidian  Cliff, 
of  natural  volcanic  glass,  invites  close  scrutiny,  for  it  is  a  very 
fine  example  of  this  species  of  lava.  The  cliff  is  a  high,  black, 
abrupt  one  and  in  former  years  furnished  an  inexhaustible 
supply  of  material  to  the  Indians  for  arrow  heads.  When 
Colonel  Norris  constructed  the  first  road  around  its  base,  he 
fractured  the  huge  black  boulders  that  obstructed  the  way  by 
first  building  fires  about  them  and  then,  when  heated,  dashing 
cold  water  upon  them. 

Beaver  Lake  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  cliff,  and  is  formed  by 
old  beaver  dams  that  are  still  plainly  visible. 

Three  miles  and  a  half  beyond  Osbidian  Cliff  the  first 
evidences  of  geyser  activity  are  seen.  Roaring  Mountain 
is  a  fair-sized  hill  honeycombed  with  steam  vents  that  have 
effectually  cooked  the  elevation  and  destroyed  the  vegetation. 
At  times  its  roaring  can  be  heard  some  distance  away. 

Of  other  minor  objects  of  interest  passed  en  route,  Apolli- 
naris  Spring,  Twin  Lakes,  and  the  Frying  Pan  are  the  more 
important. 

Norris  Geyser  Basin  is  as  weird,  unnatural,  and  interesting 
a  piece  of  landscape  as  one  ever  sees.  Steam  columns  rise 
from  hundreds  of  hot-water  pools  and  orifices  in  the  white- 
gray  basin,  as  if  it  were  the  center  of  a  manufacturing  district. 
Norris  Basin  is  distinctive  in  that  it  possesses  the  only  steam 
geyser  or  geysers  in  the  Park.  Formerly,  one  geyser,  the 
Black  Growler,  gave  forth  an  enormous  amount  of  steam  with 
terrific  force.  In  recent  years  some  disarrangement  of  internal 
mechanism  has  resulted  in  another  "steamer"  or  two  breaking 
forth  at  the  same  spot  and  thus  dividing  the  force  of  the 


, 

!'^^4t^^M^l 
••-.--'         "'.    --'^wk 


Old  Faithful  Geyser— Eruptions  occur  every  Hour— Height  of  Water  Column  from  125  to  150  Feet 


PACIFIC     R.AILWAY 


eruption.     It  is  a  question  if  the  new  arrangement  does  not 
surpass  the  solitary  old  Growler. 

There  are  several  small  water  geysers  here,  the  Constant 
and  Minute-man  being  the  most  prominent.  The  Monarch  is 
a  powerful  one  when  in  eruption,  and  the  New  Crater,  one  of 
moderate  intensity,  has  a  highly-colored  and  very  attractive 
crater.  The  Ink  Well  is  an  object  of  much  attention  from 
tourists. 

After  luncheon  an  hour  or  an  hour  and  a  half  is  usually 
given  to  "doing"  the  basin  afoot,  and  the  coaches  are  boarded 
at  a  rustic  pavilion  at  the  farther  side  of  the  formation.  The 
afternoon  ride  introduces  the  tourist  to  two  of  the  largest  of 
the  streams  in  the  Park — the  Gibbon  River,  named  in  honor 
of  Gen.  John  Gibbon,  and  the  Firehole  River.  The  junction  of 
these  streams,  within  the  limits  of  the  Park,  forms  the  Madison 
River,  one  of  the  three  streams  forming  the  Missouri. 

The  ride  along  the  Gibbon  River  with,  first,  its  continuous 
cascades  and  one  or  two  diminutive  geysers,  then  its  wide, 
open,  mountain-bordered  park,  where  the  elk  are  said  to 
resort  during  the  winter,  and  finally  its  winding,  palisaded 
canon,  is  one  of  the  very  attractive  features  of  the  Park 
coaching  trip. 

On  the  mountain,  at  the  head  of  the  Gibbon  Canon  and 
across  the  stream  to  the  right — the  West — and  a  thousand 
feet  above  it  lies  Monument  Geyser  Basin,  a  most  interest- 
ing, if  rather  cemeterial  spot,  to  be  seen  as  a  side- trip  from 
Norris  Basin. 

About  midway  of  the  canon  Gibbon  Fall,  a  fan-shaped 
fall,  eighty  feet  high,  is  passed.  The  water  in  a  thin  sheet 
glissades  down  the  black  volcanic  rock,  producing  a  very 
pleasing  effect. 

The  Cascades  of  the  Firehole  are  a  series  of  rapids  seen 
from  the  coach,  and  much  better  from  the  rock  projections  of 


V. 


JB 

5T-...S.. 


the  river  bank,  where  the  road  first  touches  the  Firehole 
River.  The  Firehole  is  larger  than  the  Gibbon,  and,  in  some 
respects,  prettier.  The  clarity  of  the  deep  waters  and  the 
beauty  of  the  vegetable  growths  seen  in  their  depths,  appeal 
irresistibly  to  one's  esthetic  tastes.  The  name  "Firehole" 
comes  from  the  fact  that  the  locality  was  known  among  the 
old  mountain  men  as  the  "Burnt  Hole,"  due  to  an  extensive 
forest  fire  that  swept  the  region,  and  Chittenden  gives  this 
as  the  origin  of  the  name  of  the  river. 

After  crossing  Nez  Perce  Creek,  a  two-mile  ride  across  an 
old  geyser  formation,  the  outskirts  of  Lower  Geyser  Basin, 
ends  the  forty-mile  drive  and  houses  the  traveler  in  the  Foun- 
tain Hotel,  a  homelike,  roomy,  modern  hotel  possessed  of  all 
the  comforts  and  conveniences. 

Lower   Geyser  Basin 

As  one  for  the  first  time  gazes  out  upon  the  weird  surround- 
ings, he  is  overcome  with  astonishment.  Is  the  land  under 
the  spell  of  a  malevolent  curse  or  is  one  himself  the  victim  of 
some  diabolic  incantation?  Devastation  so  stalks  abroad 
that  it  is  almost  impossible  to  believe  that  one  is  indeed  in 
the  flesh  and  looking  out  upon  a  real,  tangible  scene.  But 
the  illusion  passes. 

Much  space  could  be  used  in  describing  the  multitude  of 
objects  to  be  seen  at  this  point,  and  the  wise  man  and  woman 
will  plan  to  remain  at  the  Fountain  Hotel  from  one  to  several 
days  to  see  them.  In  plain  view  from  the  hotel  and  but  a 
short  walk  distant,  are  the  Fountain  and  Clepsydra  geysers, 
Mammoth  Paint  Pots,  and  a  hot  spring  whose  sulphur  waters 
are  piped  to  the  hotel  and  used  for  baths. 

The  Fountain  Geyser  is  as  beautiful  an  example  of  its  class 
as  is  Old  Faithful  of  the  cone  geysers.  It  projects  huge  masses 
of  water  in  spasmodic  impulses,  or  eruptions,  plays  at  inter- 


N  O  R/T  H  E  R,  X      PACIFIC 


vals.  of    about  four  hours,  and  for  fifteen  minutes  at   a  time. 
The  Paint  Pots  are  Nature's  mush  pools— a  strange,  boil- 
ing, plopping  caldron  of  beautifully  colored  clay  that  holds 
one  with  peculiar  fascination. 

Regarding  the  Paint  Pots  and  the  Fountain  Geyser,  Mary 
C.  Ludwig  has  written  of  them  in  the  Pittsburg  Press  as 
follows : 

"After  we  have  eaten 

^tffi  dinner  we  find   that 

the  Fountain  Hotel 
is  literally  sur- 
rounded with 
geysers  and  hot 
springs.  A  very 
interesting  phe- 
nomenon  is  the 


Ma  mm  oth 
Paint   Pots. 
The  main 
pot     or 
basin  is 
•  rhaps 

forty  by  sixty  feet  and  its  contents  consist  of  a  mass  of  a 
whitish,  mortar-like  substance  which  boils  continuously  after 
the  manner  of  a  huge  pot  of  mush.  On  one  side  of  the  basin 
is  a  rose-colored  flat,  seamed  and  cracked  like  a  dried -up 
swamp,  dotted  with  cones  of  various  tints  of  pink,  interspersed 
with  a  few  cones  of  Quaker  gray. 

"Turning  from  this  new 'prodigy  we  pass  a  few  rods  farther 
to  the  west  to  await  the  eruption  of  the  Fountain  Geyser. 
It  has  a  crater  thirty  feet  in  diameter.  We  had  thought  the 
Norris  Basin  weird  and  uncanny,  but  as  we  stand  near  the 
verge  of  this' chasm,  watching  the  furious  boiling  of  the  water, 


T  H  FL,  Q  U  G  H         W  O  N  D  E  R^  L  A  N    D 


The  Great,  or  Lower  Fall  of  the  Yellowstone — 310  Feet  high 


oftentimes   thrown    vi  i   and   s 

about  until  the  sur 

ing  to  the 

underfoot,  until  it  really  the  den 

Hades  id  holding  nig': 

Norris  dwindli 

\wful  a:  •  vllbound.      Finally,    with    a 

'     terrible  shriek,   the  whole  boiling,  angr 
upward     some    twenty 

v 

;vn  thir 
fort) 

and  the  volume 
of  water,  spray, 
and  steam  pre- 
sents to  our 
astonished  gaze 
a  sight  that 
seems  not  of  the 
earth  earthly.'1 
At  a  distance  of  two  miles  there  is  a  collecti  >ools, 

springs,  and  geysers  that  one  can  study  and  admire  for  days. 
Prominent   among   these   are    Mushroom,    Buffalo,    Surp 
and  the  Five  Sisters  pools.     The  variety  of  color, 
character  to  be  seen  among  these  modest,  beautiful  expressions 
of  nature  is  surprising  an  be  interpreted  by  printed 

words.     The  soul  of  Nature  her- 

but  in  soul  language  alone.     Of  all  th  jects  the  Great 

Fountain  Geyser  is  the  chief.  . 

The  Fountain  Geyser  is,  in  a  way,  a  replica  of  the  Great 
Fountain,  the  latter  being,  however,  a  much 
ful,  and  larger  geyser  than  t:  The  < 


Firehote  River  and 
Geyser  Steam  Columns 


f* 

TH  R 

,O  U 

G  H 

W 

O  N 

D  E 

FL.L 

A  N 

D 

H 

Geyser  is  a  leviathan  among  geysers,  playing  to  a  height  of 
100  feet  and  from  thirty  to  forty-five  minutes,  or  even  longer, 
at  a  time.  It  is  supposed  to  have  an  eruption  about  every 
nine  hours,  but  it  is  a  trifle  erratic  both  as  to  its  schedule  and 
duration  of  eruption.  No  one  who  cares  for  geyser  phenomena 
should  fail  to  see  this  magnificent  fountain. 

In  a  shallow  ravine,  or  draw,  near  the  Great  Fountain,  is 
a  string  of  water  pearl  pools  of  exquisite  beauty,  and  northwest 
from  the  geyser  is  another  collection.  The  thing  of  particular 
interest  among  those  at  the  latter  point  is  Firehole  Lake,  one 
of  the  most  peculiar  objects  in  this  peculiar  land.  A  light, 
bluish  flame  seems  to  issue  from  the  depths  of  the  pool,  and 
the  effect  of  this,  as  it  comes  gliding  to  the  surface,  is  most 
striking.  It  is  no  flame,  however,  but,  undoubtedly,  is  a  gas 
from  the  heated  rocks  or  caverns  below. 

The  entire  Lower  Basin  is  replete  with  interesting  thermal 
springs.  Along  the  banks  of  the  Firehole  River  there  are 
hundreds  of  them. 

In  the  direction  of  the  river  and  half  or  three-quarters  of 
a  mile  from  the  hotel  is  the  spot  where  the  Cowan  party  were 
taken  prisoners  by  Chief  Joseph  and  the  Nez  Perce  Indians 
in  their  raid  across  the  country  in  1877. 

Midway  Geyser  Basin 

From  the  Fountain  Hotel  one  can  always  see,  toward  the 
southwest,  at  a  distance  of  four  miles,  heavy  vaporous  clouds 
rising  high  into  the  heavens.  There,  in  a  narrow,  hill- 
bordered  valley,  small  in  superficial  area,  are  Excelsior 
Geyser,  Prismatic  Lake,  and  Turquoise  Spring. 

The  geyser,  when  in  activity,  is  the  greatest  one  in  the 
Park,  possibly  in  the  world-.  Of  the  explosive,  or  Fountain 
class  of  geysers,  it  is  beyond  question  the  finest  example.  It 
is  a  water  volcano  when  in  eruption,  but  its  periods  of 


NO 


H  E 


PACIFIC     R^AILWAY 


inactivity  are  prolonged  and  it  gives  little  or  no  preliminary 
sign,  usually  breaking  forth  unceremoniously  and  with  great 
violence.  It  courteously,  however,  continues  in  periodical 
activity  for  a  year  or  two  once  it  has  awakened  from  its 
lethargy.  It  has  not  been  in  action  since  1888  but  is  liable 
to  break  forth  at  any  time.  When  in  eruption  it  plays  to  a 
height  of  250  feet. 

As  Excelsior  is  the  greatest  geyser,  so  is  Prismatic  Lake 
the  largest  and,  perhaps,  the  most  beautiful  spring,  of  its 
kind,  in  the  world.  It  is  about  250  by  300  feet  in  size,  clouds 
of  steam  constantly  rise  from  it,  and  the  rainbow  is  fairly 
rivalled  by  the  richness  and  variety  of  color  that  are  found 
in  its  hot  waters  and  around  its  scalloped  and  clifflet  edges. 

Turquoise  Spring  is  similar  to  Prismatic  Pool  and  from 
one-third  to  one-half  as  large.  Its  -name  indicates  the  pre- 
vailing color,  which  grades  and  changes  into  numerous  others. 
The  geyser  and  the  two  pools  are  close  together  on  a  geyserite 
plain  on  the  western  bank  of  Firehole  River  into  which  they 
all  discharge,  and  the  coaches  stop  at  a  convenient  platform 
for  tourists  to  get  out  and  see  them. 

Upper   Geyser   Basin 

A  short,  nine-mile  drive  from  the  Fountain  Hotel  and  the 
coaches  are  whirling  through  the  most  peculiar  pocket,  or 
valley,  in  the  world,  to  the  portals  of  the  most  unique  hotel  in 
the  world.  The  valley  is  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin ;  the  hotel 
is  Old  Faithful  Inn  described  elsewhere  in  this  chapter. 

.  Charles  Warren  Stoddard,  in  the  Ave  Maria  for  September, 
1898,  gives  a  realistic  picture  of  this  spot  that  will  be  appre- 
ciated by  those  who  have  themselves  seen  it. 

"After  our  siesta  we  went  forth  refreshed.  In  the  great 
basin  below  us  fountains  were  playing — natural  fountains 
tipped  with  plumes  of  steam.  These  fountains  sprang  gaily 


m 

&  •'•     H ";•'>'••..:  ':"v;-";  $$ 

.,-v:  .  -      i:n    ": 

:?-?,.  •.-.    •.'••' 


mmmW(  J  »<;>  i^  **Wv  ?p4  ^  ; 

a    m 

W.  v;:tef;      ^Op^aS 


THROUGH 


W       N 


NQR^THEtCN      PACIFIC     FL.AILWAY          [( 


into  the  air.  h  spnr 

subsided.     Some  of  them  wer  ••  a  few  minutes  only; 

but  some  towered  like  columns  that  crumble  while  they  stand, 
reeling  and  tottering,  wreathed  in  thin  dra 
twenty  minutes  <>r  more.  We  could  hear  the  rumbling  in 
the  earth,  the  hoarse  growl  in  the  throats  of  these  fountains, 
.and  the  splash  of  tru  ;  nding  flood.  We  could  sec1  the 
torrents  that  poured  from  their  basins  and  cascaded  over  the 
bed  of  the  valley-  it  was  like  a  bed  of  cement  kcp;  and 

warm — and  tumbled  headlong  in  boiling  waves  t<  >ward  the  river 
which  received  them  all. 

"Old  Faithful,  the  pet  geyser 'of  the  Upper  Basin,  is  situ- 
ated only  a  few  rods  from  the  hotel.  You  hear  him  splashing 
in  the  night;  and  if  you  have  kept  your  reckoning,  can  actu- 
ally tell  the  hour,  he  is  so  regular  in  his  action.  Xever  was  a 
geyser  better  named.'' 

This  place  of  geysers  is  the  center  of  curiosity  in  the  Park, 
without  doubt.  While  the  Grand  Canon  holds  us  under  a 
spell  by  the  opulence  of  its  color  and  the  grandeur  of  its  sculp- 
ture and  is  most  surely  the  piece  dc  resistance,  so  to  write,  of 
the  Park,  yet  canons,  in  one  form  or  another,  are  more  familiar 
to  us  than  geysers,  and  the  latter  are,  besides,  a  form  of  phe- 
nomena most  rare  and,  to  a  degree,  inconceivable. 

At  the  lower  end  of  the  valley  are  the  Fan,  Mortar,  and 
Riverside  geysers;  at  the  extreme  upper  end,  sole  monarch 
of  his  domain,  is  Old  Faithful  Geyser.  Every  tourist  loves 
Old  Faithful.  It  reigns  at  the  head  of  its  mountain-girt  valley, 
steadfast,  punctual,  giving  a  full  measure  of  service  and 
challenges  the  homage  and  affection  of  every  lover  of  nature. 
For  countless  centuries,  possibly,  it  rendered  its  hourly  tribute 
to  nature  alone,  and  now,  year  after  year,  it  gives  joy  to  the 
throngs  of  humanity  who  .wend  their  way  to  its  inspiring 
presence.  Every  sixty-five  or  seventy  minutes  this  geyser 


/*; 


is  in  eruption  to  a,  height  varying  from  100  to  150  feet.  It  is 
the  geyser  of  the  Park,  all  things  considered. 

The  Riverside,  on  the  bank. of  the  Firehole  River,  is  in 
eruption  every  few  hours  and,  when  not  materially  affected  by 
the  wind,  throws  an  arch  of  water  across  the  river.  One  of 
the  features  of  this  geyser  is  a  rainbow  that  always  is  seen 
during  eruption. 

Between  the  Riverside  and  Old  Faithful  geysers,  scattered 
along  both  sides  of  the  beautiful  Firehole  River,  are  found  the 
remaining  geysers  of  the  basin. 

The  Giant,  with  its  huge  shattered  horn,  fractured  at  some 
period  of  thermal  exuberance,  and  the  Grotto,  a  veritable 
puzzle  of  projections  and  angles  in  its  fantastic,  cavern-like 
cone,  stand  near  together,  twin  monuments  typifying  the 
unique  nature  of  the  spot.  The  former  plays  to  a  height 
of  250  feet  when  at  its  best;  the  latter  "splashes  and  lunges 
about  unwieldily  to  a  height  of  thirty  to  forty  feet. 

The  Oblong,  farther  up  the  river  bank,  has  an  open,  obloiag 
crater  studded  with  massive,  wonderful  geyserite  beads,  or 
nodules,  all  beautifully  colored  in  rather  soft  neutral  tints. 
Across  the  road  from  these  three  are  the  Comet  and  Splendid, 
the  latter,  when  in  eruption,  being,  perhaps,  the  most  graceful 
of  all  geysers,  but  in  recent  years  it  is  rarely  in  operation. 

Following  up  the  valley  there  are  found,  on  the  right  bank, 
a  great  many  hot  pools  and  several  geysers,  prominent  among 
the  latter  being  the.  Sawmill,  Economic,  Turban,  and  Grand, 
the  last,  one  of  the  finest  in  the  Park.  The  Grand  often  plays 
several  times  in  quick  succession  to  a  height  equalling  that  of 
Old  Faithful  which,  to  some  extent,  it  resembles.  The 
Economic  plays  every  few  minutes  and,  while  a  small  geyser, 
it  is  a  favorite  one.  The  Castle,  characteristically  named  by 
the  Washburn  party,  is  a  great  geyser — upon  occasions.  Its 
cone  is  massive  and  intensely  interesting,  and  its  eruption, 


NOR/TH  E 


PACIFIC     FL.AI  LWAY 


consisting  about  equally  of  steam  and  water,  does  not  reach 
higher  than  from  fifty  to  seventy-five  feet,  usually;  again  it 
plays  magnificently  to  a  height  of  200  feet  or  more,  the  steam 
rising  majestically  to  a  height  of  several  hundred  feet. 

Easily  seen  from  Old  Faithful  Inn  are  the  Beehive,  Lion, 
Lioness  and  Cubs,  (the  last  three  a  congenial  family) ,  and  the 
Giantess  geysers, 
with  many  pools 
boiling  and 
splashing 
away  night 
and  day.  The 
Beehive  is  the 
most  s  y  m  - 


The  Big  Porch 
Old  Faithful  Inn 


metric  geyser 
in  the  world. 
It  is  quite  un- 
like any  other 
in  its  style  <  >f 
eruption.  1 1 
usually  plays 

for  about  ten  minutes  and  to  a  height  of  200  feet  or 
more.  Its  crater,  cone,  or  pedestal,  resembles  an  old- 
fashioned  beehive.  The  Lion  is  a  pleasing  geyser,  and  its 
leonine  mate  and  babies  are  interesting  in  their  way.  The 
Giantess  is  an  Amazon.  She  holds  herself  well  in  hand  for 
two  weeks  and  then  comes  a  violent  eructation  that  resembles 
an  explosion  of  artillery.  The  geyser  has  no  cone,  but  a  deep 
well  instead,  and  every  drop  of  water  is  hurled  forth  at  the 
initial  propulsion — for  there  are  several  of  them  at  stated  inter- 
vals— followed  by  the  liberation  of  pent-up  steam  which  rushes 
forth  in  huge  masses  and  with  a  roar  that  is  heard  throughout 
the  basin. 


T  H 


-1         WONDERLAND 


"*  "    -  -  -'  "-. '-.  "   J 

The  Pinnacles  and  Towers  of  the  Grand  Canyon — The  Climax  of  Grande 


^3r.:~. 


^JS^?V~-j -;-;-•• .- 


Farther  away  from  the  hotel  the  eruptions  of  the  mighty 
Giant  Geyser,  the  Grand,  ana  others  are,  to  a  considerable 
degree,  visible.  Often  these  distant  eruptions  are  exhibitions 
of  unusual  grandeur  and  majesty. 

I  quote  a  part  of  a  very  characteristic  description  of  the 
Upper  Geyser  Basin  by  Kipling: 

"The  first  mound  that  I  encountered  belonged  to  a  goblin 
who  was  splashing  in  his  tub.  I  heard  him  kick,  pull  a 
shower  bath  on  his  shoulders,  gasp,  crack  his  joints,  and  rub 
himself  with  a  towel;  then  he  let  the  water  out  of  the  bath, 
as  a  thoughtful  man  should,  and  it  all  sank  down  out  of  sight 
till  another  goblin  arrived 

"Yet  they  called  this  place  the  Lioness  and  the  Cubs.  It 
lies  not  very  far  from  the  Lion,  which  is  a  sullen,  roaring  beast, 
and  they  say  that  when  it  is  very  active  the  other  geysers 
presently  follow  suit. 

"After  Krakatoa  all  the  geysers  went  mad  together,  spout- 
ing, spurting,  and  bellowing  till  men  feared  that  they  would 
rip  up  the  whole  field.  Mysterious  sympathies  exist  among 
them  and  when  the  Giantess  speaks  they  all  hold  their  peace. 
She  is  a  woman. 

"I  was  watching  a  solitary  spring,  well  within  the  line  of 
the  woods,  catching  at  a  pine  branch  overhead,  when  far 
across  the  fields  and  not  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from 
the  hotel  there  stood  up  a  plume  of  spun  glass,  incandescent 
and  superb,  against,  the  sky. 

'"That,'  said  the  trooper,  'is  Old  Faithful.'  *  *  * 

"So  we  looked  and  we  wondered  at  the  Beehive,  whose 
mouth  is  built  up  exactly  like  a  hive,  at  the  Turban,  and  at 
many,  many  other  geysers,  hot  holes,  and  springs.  Some  of 
them  rumbled,  some  hissed,  some  went  off  spasmodically,  and 
others  lay  dead  still  in  sheets  of  sapphire  and  beryl." 

Nearby,    on    Iron    Creek,    there    are    several    remarkably. 


i 


K 


: 

^ 


i 

T  H 

FL.O 

U  G 

H 

W 

O  N 

0  E   R. 

.LAN 

D 

m 

''fte 


•:~f 


beautiful  pools.     These  are  the  Black  Sand  pool,  or  basin,  a 
lovely  green  hot  spring  rimmed  with  black  obsidian  sand  and 
having  a   ribboned   and   variegated   outlet;  Sunset   Lake,    a 
large,  steaming  lakelet  whose  serrated,  wandering  edges  are 
ablaze  with  color  in  which  every  gradation  of  red  seems  to 
have  been  put  on  to  try  the  effect  which  is,  indeed,  ravishing. 
In    juxtaposition     and 
strong     contrast      lies 
Emerald     Pool,     not  * 

'       .  x 

quite  so   large   as    the        ^  ,^  v 

Sunset  and  its  name 
betokening  the  color 
scheme.       It     is    as 
perfect    as    is    the 
other,  many  will  say 
more    so,     the    scal- 
loped   rim     of    the 
pool  and  the  shelv- 
ing   bottom    being 
ornamented  and  tinted 
far  beyond  man's  ability  to 
even  conceive  let  alone    enact. 
On  the  divide    leading    from    the    geysers    to    this    isolated 
retreat  stands  the    Punch    Bowl,    an    elevated    spring    that 
boils  furiously  and  that  has  an  ornate  rim  highly  colored  in 
yellow  and  saffron,  with  an  infusion  of  reds. 

Besides  these  more  important  objects  the  Upper  Basin 
is  filled  with  many  smaller,  sputtering  geysers  and  springs,  it 
being  impossible  to  move  any  distance  in  any  direction  with- 
out encountering  some  phase  of  hydrotherrnal  activity. 

In  the  early  morning  the  basin  presents  a  most  remarkable 
appearance.  Thousands  of  steam  columns  and  clouds  are 
rising  from  the  pools  filling  the  air  with  their  white  vapor  and 


Pelicans  at 
Yellowstone  Lake 


changing  the  valley  into  one  of  enchantment.  The  moonlight 
vision  with  geysers  in  eruption  is  another  transformation  long 
to  be  remembered,  while  the  effect  of  the  giant  search-light 
from  the  roof  of  Old  Faithful  Inn,  when  turned  upon  Old 
Faithful  Geyser,  is  sure  to  provoke  profound  admiration  for 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  pictures  imaginable. 

A  most  interesting  locality,  really  an  annex  to  the  Upper 
Basin  and  visited  by  the  coaches  en  route  thereto,  is  Biscuit 
Basin,  a  mile  distant  from  Old  Faithful  Inn.  Sapphire  Pool, 
Silver  Globe  Spring,  and  some  marvelous  geyserite  biscuits 
are  a  few  of  a  hundred  or  more  very  rare  objects  to  be  seen 
at  this  spot.  Another  side  trip,  to  Lone  Star  Geyser,  should 
be  made.  This  geyser  stands  alone  on  the  banks  of  the 
Firehole  River  about  four  miles  from  Old  Faithful  Inn.  It 
is  well  worth  seeing.  The  geyser  plays  at  intervals  of  from 
thirty  minutes  to  two  hours  to  a  height  of  fifty  or  sixty  feet, 
and  its  cone,  a  quite  large  and  high  one,  is  one  of  the  most 
delicately  beautiful  in  the  Park. 

Across  the  Continental  Divide 

Between  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin  and  Yellowstone  Lake 
rises  the  Continental  Divide,  an  irregular  line  of  mountains 
that  divides  the  drainage  of  the  region,  sending  part  of  it 
through  the  Yellowstone  and  Missouri  rivers  into  the  Atlan- 
tic, the  remainder  through  the  Snake  and  Columbia  rivers  to 
the  Pacific,  Ocean. 

Leaving  Old  Faithful  Inn  the  road  ascends  through  the 
forest  along  the  Firehole  River  until  Spring  Creek  is 
reached,  passing  Keppler  Cascade,  somewhat  similar  to  the 
Cascades  of  the  Firehole.  Winding,  then,  through  Spring 
Creek  Canon,  a  secluded  little  gorge,  the  Continental  Divide,  is 
first  reached  at  Isa  Lake,  elevation,  8,250  feet,  a  small  pond 
covered  with  water-lilies.  The  spot  is  a  wild  and  lonely  glen 


4 


\ 


THROUGH         WOTSTDEFCLAND 


in  the  very  grip  of  the  mountains,  known  in  the  topography 
of  the  Park  as  Craig  Pass. 

At  Shoshone  Point,  a  wide,  beautiful  view  of  timbered 
mountains,  grassy  vale,  and  sleeping  lake  is  unfolded,  culmi- 
nating with  the  three  snow-covered  peaks  of  the  giant,  snow- 
covered  Tetons,  fifty  miles  away,  in  the  distance. 

The  Divide,  once  more  crossed,  the  road  then  descends 
along  the  forest-shaded  mountain  side  to  the  lunch  station 
at  the  west  arm  of  the  lake,  the  scene  changing  as  the  coach 
changes  direction. 

The  Continental  Divide,  within  the  Park,  is  not  particu- 
larly altitudinous,  its  general  elevation  being,  on  an  average, 
perhaps,  about  8,500  feet. 

Yellowstone  Lake 

Aside  from  the  fact  of  its  high  altitude,  7,741  feet,  and  its 
actual    navigability,    Yellowstone    Lake 
is  interesting  for  itself.      It   is  a 
lovely  sheet  of  water,  very  irreg- 
ular in   form, 
prolific  in1 
sharp  in- 
dentations, 
and    its 
shores  are 
heavily 
wooded. 
The    water 
is  of  a  beau- 
tiful color, 
moderate 

in  depth,  cold,  abundant  itl  salmon  trout,  and  the  lake  is 
appropriately  framed  in  by  the  mountains. 


Yellowstone  Lake 
and  Absaroka 
Mountains 


.<:..:.  •!,. 
2Sii*» 


NOR-/TH  E 


PACIFIC     FL.AILWAY 


The  lake  is  about  twenty  miles  long  and  sixteen  miles  in 
width  and  it  has  a  shore-line  of  about  one  hundred  miles. 
Its  average  depth  is  about  thirty  feet  with  a  maximum  of 
300  feet.  The  lake  is  one  of  very  few  in  the  world  of  as  large 
an  area  at  such  an  altitude. 

The  west  arm  is  a  wide  and  calm  sheet  of  water,  except 
when  wind  swept,  joining  -the  main  body  between  two  low, 
long,  and  heavily  wooded  points.  The  noble  Absaroka  Range 
bounds  the  distant  eastern  horizon,  and  is  a  fine,  notched, 
high  range,  a  fitting  border  to  the  lake,  its  upper  heights 
entirely  bare  of  forests.  On  the  lake  shore  at  the  lunch  station 
are  some  beautiful  paint  pots,  many  and  varied  hot  pools,  and 
two  or  three  geysers.  T\vo  of  these  pools  are  the  deepest  in 
the  Park,  apparently,  and  the  elfins  of  these  paint  pots  dance 
higher  and  cut  more  lovely  figures  in  their  gyrations  than  do 
those  at  the  Lower  Geyser  Basin. 

At  this  point  on  the  western  shore  is  found  the  hot  spring 
cone,  by  many  regarded  as  purely  mythical,  where  the  angler 
catches  a  trout  in  the  lake,  and,  without  moving,  flops  him 
into  the  boiling  water  of  the  pool  and  in  a  twinkling  cooks 
him.  This  is  all  entirely  true.  In  early  summer,  when  the 
park  season  first  opens,  the  rapidly-melting  snows  in  the 
mountains  cause  the  lake  to  be,  usually,  quite  high,  and  this 
particular  hot  spring  cone  and  pool  which  the  tourist,  later, 
sees,  is  apt  to  be  nearly  or  quite  overflowed  by  the  lake. 
Subsequently,  when  it  is  well  out  of  the  water,  it  forms  a 
very  conspicuous  object. 

From  the  lunch  station  at  the  west  arm  the  government 
road  to  Jackson  Lake  and  the  Three  Tetons  country  leads 
southward  past  Lewis  Lake  and  down  Lewis  River. 

The  view  from  the  porches  and  rooms  of  the  stately 
Colonial  Hotel  near  the  outlet  of  Yellowstone  Lake  is  one  of 
quiet,  peace,  and  beauty.  The  large  lake  stretches  out  and 


& 


away  far,  far  into  the  mountains,  the  striking  irregularities 
and  sinuosities  of  its  shore-line  being  plainly  visible.  Steven- 
son Island  lies  almost  within  a  stone's  throw  and  little  Dot 
Island  shows  faintly  in  the  western  haze  down  toward  the 
southwestern  shore  in  line  with  Flat  Mountain  and  Mount 
Sheridan.  The  southeastern  arm,  or  finger,  can  be  plainly 
traced  as  it  winds  in  among  the  high  peaks  and  table-lands  of 
the  Absaroka  Range  far  to  the  southeast.  There,  beneath  the 
shadows  and  slopes  of  Colter  Peak,  Table  Mountain,  Turret 
Peak,  and  Two  Ocean  Plateau,  the  Upper  Yellowstone  River, 
fresh  from  the  high 
Rockies,  expands 
into  this  charming 
body  of  water. 

An  interesting 
sight  from  the 
hotel  porch  is  that 
of  two  or  three 
large,  white  peli- 
cans that  in  state- 
ly, dignified  man- 
ner swim  slowly 
back  and  forth  as  if  purposely  on  exhibition. 

Folsom,  one  of  the  first  white  men  to  see  the  lake,  among 
modern  visitors,  paid  the  following  tribute  to  it  in  1869: 

"As  we  were  about  departing  on  our  homeward  trip  we 
ascended  the  summit  of  a  neighboring  hill  and  took  a  final 
look  at  Yellowstone  Lake.  Nestled  among  the  forest-crowned 
hills  which  bounded  our  vision,  lay  this  inland  sea,  its  crystal 
waves  dancing  and  sparkling  in  the  sunlight  as  if  laughing 
with  joy  for  their  wild  freedom.  It  is  a  scene  of  transcendent 
beauty  which  has  been  viewed  by  but  few  white  men,  and  we 
felt  glad  to  have  looked  upon  it  before  its  primeval  solitude 

58 


Moonlight  on  Yellowstone  Lake 


.;•-"•'' 

- 


should  be  broken  by  the  crowds  of  pleasure  seekers  which  at 
no  distant  day  will  throng  its  shores." 

At  various  points  along  the  shore,  besides  those  seen  be- 
tween the  west  arm  lunch  station  and  the  hotel,  there  are 
dead  or  living  evidences  of  hot  springs  action,  showing  how 
widely  distributed  is  this  feature  of  the  Park  phenomena. 

The  Natural  Bridge  within  three  or  four  miles  of  the  hotel 
and  passed  by  the  coaches  en  route,  will  repay  a  visit  from 
those  who  stop  over  a  few  days  at  this  point.  The  bridge  is 
a  natural  arch  of  rock  spanning  a  small  run. 

To   the   Grand  Canon 

Leaving  the  beautiful  lake  and  its  delightful  hotel,  the 
road  folknvs  the  windings  of  the  Yellowstone  River,  by  all 
odds  the  noblest  stream  in  the  Park  and  one  of  the  largest 
and  most  important  in  the  West.  Just  half-way  between 
Yellowstone  Lake  and  the  canon  are  found  two  or  three 
extremely  interesting  objects.  The  most  important  one  is 
Mud  Volcano,  generally  but  incorrectly  termed  Mud  Geyser. 
The  original  Mud  Geyser  is  situated  just  above  the  volcano 
and  beside  the  road,  as  the  river  runs,  and  both  these  objects 
were  discovered  and  named  by  the  Washbum  party. 

The  volcano  is,  really,  almost  the  only  thing  of  its  sort  in 
the  Park  on  a  large  scale,  and  it  impresses  persons  variously. 
To  some  it  is  a  very  uncanny,  perhaps  repulsive,  but  very 
interesting  object,  nevertheless ;  to  others  it  is,  in  a  way.  even 
fascinating.  When  discovered  (in  1870),  the  volcano  was 
very  active  and  threw  mud  entirely  clear  of  its  basin  and  over 
the  surrounding  trees.  Then  for  years  it  quieted  clown  to  the 
state  in  which  it  is  now  usual!}'  seen.  It  has  once  or  twice 
since  discovery  renewed,  for  short  intervals,  its  excessive 
vitality.  It  is  always  belching  and  throwing  thick,  roily 
water  and  mud,  from  the  bottom  of  a  cave-like  funnel  against 


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The  Rapids  of  the  Yellowstone  River — From  the  Brink  of  the  Upper  Fall 


N      PA 


the  sides  of  th  .vails.     Explosion    follows   explo- 

sion; the  brown,  oily,  mushy-looking  mass  of  liquid  mud  is 
projected  in  all  directions  in  strong  currents  and  large,  boiling 
bubbles,  and  from  it  the  steam  rises  in  swirling  wreaths,  and 
steamy  odors  assail  the  nostrils. 

A  few  rods  beyond  the  volcano,  about  on  a  level  with  the 
road,  at  the  extremity  of  a-  little  gulch  and  reached  by  well- 
tramped  trails,  is  one  of  the  secluded  gems  of  the  Park— what 
I  call  the  Gothic  Grotto.  The  first  reference  to  it  was  by 
Lieutenant  Doane,  in  1870,  and  he  well  described  it  and  called 
it  the  Grotto.  An  aper- 
ture in  the  hillside 
a  few  feet  in  size 
is  filled  with  the 
clearest  of  water, 
and  continuous 
explosions,  ex- 
actly similar  to 
those  of  the  vol- 
cano, keep 
it  constantly 
agitated  in 
its  pebbly 

basin.  At  some  periods  not  a  drop  of  water  escapes  from 
the  pool,  at  other  times  a  small  stream  issues  from  it.  The 
entrance  is  a  symmetric,  pointed,  gothic-like  one  of  rock, 
eight  or  ten  feet  high  by  five  or  six  feet  in  width  at  its  base. 
The  rock  on  the  underside  is  white,  on  the  outside  mostly  a 
strong  metallic  green,  with  green  splotches  at  places  under- 
neath. The  combination  is  exceedingly  dainty  and  effective 
and  a  great  contrast  to  the  dismal  volcano. 

This  is  the  place  where  the  Xez  Perce  Indians,  under  Chief 
Joseph,  in  their  raid  across  Montana  and  the  Park  in   1877, 


The  Yellowstone 
Rapids 

Concrete  Bridge 
in  Distance 


fl 

'-.-> 


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T  H 

R.O 

U  G 

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W  O  N  D  E  R. 

,L  A 

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5 

crossed  the  Yellowstone  River  on  their  way  out  of  the  Park. 

And  now  we  see  a  strange  thing.  The  peculiar  design 
used  by  the  Northern  Pacific  Railway  for  a  trade  mark  is 
taken  from  an  ancient  Chinese  diagram  known  as  the  Great 
Monad  and  is  many  centuries  old.  A  peculiar  meaning  and 
history  attaches  to  it.  As  Trout  Creek  in  Hayden  Valley  is 
reached,  down  below  in  a  pocket  of  the  turfy  plain,  the  creek, 
flowing  in  beautiful  convolutions,  has  worked  out  an  almost 
perfect  and  symmetric  image  of  the  Northern  Pacific  trade- 
mark. The  two  large,  central  commas  of  the  design,  known 
to  the  Chinese  as  the  Yang  and  Yin,  and  shown  in  the  body  of 
the  trademark  in  red  and  black  or  white  and  black,  are 
strongly  brought  out,  and  the  trademark  symbol  can  easily 
be  traced  on  the  ground. 

Crossing  Hayden  Valley,  named  for  Dr.  F  V.  Hayden,  and 
the  most  lovely  and  largest  valley  in  the  Park,  we  soon  reach 
the  rapids  of  the  Yellowstone  River  above  the  Upper  Fall. 
Just  above  the  latter  stands  the  new  and  graceful  concrete 
Melan  arch  bridge  across  the  river.  This  bridge,  which  cost 
$20,000,  with  the  new  road,  down  the  south  side  of  the  canon, 
enables  tourists  to  visit  Artist's  Point,  so  called  because 
Thomas  Moran  is  supposed  to  have  painted  the  magnificent 
picture  of  the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Yellowstone  which  hangs 
in  the  Capitol  at  Washington,  from  that  point.  Mr.  Moran 
recently  stated  that  this  idea  was  an  erroneous  one,  that  his 
painting  was  not  made  from  the  south  side. 

The    Grand   Canon   and  Falls 

The  tourist  draws  near  the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Yellow- 
stone on  the  keenest  edge  of  expectancy.  The  quiet  ride 
from  the  lake  allows  time  to  review,  mentally,  the  events  of 
the  days  preceding  and  thus  prepares  one  for  the  final  act  of 
the  scenic  drama  that  is  at  hand. 


Yellowstone  Lake  plays  an  important  part  in  the  evolution 
of  the  park  tour.  Coming  between  the  geysers  and  the  canon 
it  serves  to  change  the  current  of  one's  reflections  and  to  soothe 
the  emotions,  so  that  the  mind  is  the  better  able  to  grasp  the 
real  meaning  of  the  canon  and  to  enter  into  the  full  enjoyment 
of  its  magnificence  and  grandeur. 

In  magnitude  there  are  many  greater  canons  than  this. 
The  Yosemite  is  two  and  a  half  times  the  depth  of  the  Yellow- 
stone and  the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Colorado  is  five  times  as 
deep,  ten  times  as  long,  and  perhaps  as  many  times  wide. 
Each  of  these  two  is  perfect  of  its  type,  but  each  is  as  radically 
different  from  each  other  as  both  are  diverse  from  the  Yellow- 
stone. The  latter  is  unquestionably  the  most  perfect  thing 
of  its  kind  and  is  in  a  category  by  itself. 

The  Grand  Canon  of  the  Yellowstone  is,  all  told,  about 
twenty  miles  long,  1,200  feet  deep,  and  2,000  feet  wide.  This 
gives,  in  a  general  way,  its  superficial  dimensions.  There  are 
about  four,  or  at  most  five,  miles  of  it  that  the  tourist  usually 
sees  and  these  constitute  the  most  attractive  part  of  the  gorge. 

The  moment  that  one  stands  on  the  brink  of  this  remark- 
able chasm  and  gazes  upon  the  scene,  one  recognizes  the  utter 
impotency  of  words  to  describe  it.  Xeither  photography  nor 
pigments  can  reproduce  it.  No  other  gorge  in  the  world  has 
the  singularly  refined  yet  ornate  and  involved  sculpturing  that 
is  seen  here.  Xo  other  gorge  exhibits  such  a  riot  and  wanton- 
ness of  color  as  does  this.  And  strange  to  tell  ther  -feet 
harmony  and  congruity,  no  violence  is  done  to  any  canon  of 
art.  Various  figures  of  speech,  similes,  and  com]):;  -ive 
been  used  to  express  in  some  comprehensible  way  what  one 
here  sees.  But  all  to  no  avail! 

The  mental  condition  of  most  persons  as  they  first  gaze 
upon  this  profound  scene  -canon,  falls,  and  river,  with  their 
amazing  colors  and  sculptures  — is  well  stated  by  Mr.  Langford : 


fc. 


ta 


k 


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G  H 


"Wednesday,  August  31,  1870 — This  has  been  a  'red 
letter'  day  with  me,  and  one  which  I  shall  not  soon  forget, 
for  my  mind  is  clogged  and  my  memory  confused  by  what 
I  have  to-day  seen.  *  *  *  We  are  all  overwhelmed  with 
astonishment  and  wonder  at  what  we  have  seen,  and  we  feel 
that  we  have  been  near  the  very  presence  of  the  Almighty. 
General  Washburn  has  just  quoted  from  the  psalm : 

'When  I  consider  thy  heavens,  the  work  of  thy  fingers,*  * 
What  is  man  that  thou  art  mindful  of  him  ?' 

"My  own  mind  is  so  confused  that  I  hardly  know  where  to 
commence  in  making  a  clear  record  of  what  is  at  this  moment 
floating  past  my  mental  vision.  I  cannot  confine  myself 
to  a  bare  description  of  the  falls  of  the  Yellowstone  alone, 
for  these  two  great  cataracts  are  but  one  feature  in  a  scene 
composed  of  so  many  of  the  elements  of  grandeur  and  sub- 
limity, that  I  almost  despair  of  giving  to  those  who  on  our 
return  home  will  listen  to  a  recital  of  our  adventures,  the 
faintest  conception  of  it.  The  immense  canon,  or  gorge  of 
rocks  through  which  the  river  descends,  perhaps  more  than 
the  falls,  is  calculated  to  fill  the. observer  with  feelings  of 
mingled  awe  and  terror." 

As  stated,  the  strength  and  power  of  the  Grand  Canon  of 
the  Yellowstone  are  not  in  its  superficial  dimensions.  It 
is  in  the  profound  sculpture  work  and  the  transcendent,  glori- 
fied color  scheme  that  they  are  to  be  found.  The  chiseling  of 
the  walls  is  not  confined,  alone,  to  large  figures  and  buttresses, 
but  the  enormous  and  involved  amount  of  work  exhibited  in 
the  details  commands  our  admiration  and  takes  us  by  sur- 
prise. Every  tower,  buttress,  salient,  recess,  cliff,  rampart, 
and  wall  is  elaborately  and  minutely  embellished.  The  mul- 
tiplicity of  such  work  and  its  .overwhelming  effect  is  scarcely 
conceivable'  until  one  actually  beholds  it.  And  then  one 
And  what  of  the  canon  colors?  Such  wild 


stands  aghast! 


^ 

TSr 


N  O  FL,T  HEFCN      PACIFIC 


and  riotous  and  yet  perfectly  harmonious  combinations  could 
only  be  conceived  by  the  brain  of  Deity.  To  stand  at  Grand 
View  and,  for  the  first  time,  gaze  upon  the  glaring,  royal 
welter  of  color  which  enfolds  the  great  gulf  beneath  is  to  shock 
one  into  silence,  to  cause  one  to  hold  one's  breath.  Artists 
stand  appalled  and  enthralled  at  the  wonderful  color  harmony, 
and  well  the)'  may. 

Rev.  Dr.  E.  P.  Hill  of  the  Presbyterian  church  thus  ex- 
presses the  effect  that  the  canon  produced  upon  him: 

"Here  to  the  left  all  along  are  turrets  and  castles  and 
cathedrals,  there  a  Parthenon,  over  there  St.  Mark's  glittering 
in  gold,  there  Taj  Mahal,  as  white  as  spotless  alabaster. 
Colors  green  and  brown  and  saffron  and  orange  and  pink  and 
vermillion  and  russet  cover  everv  rock  until  the  scene  is 

* 

bewildering.  What  shall  one  say  as  he  looks  upon  such  a 
scene?  Nature  teaches  us  about  God.  Then  the  Grand 
Canon  has  been  cut  and  painted  by  the  divine  hand  as  if  to 
give  us  some  idea  of  John's  vision  of  heaven.  Walls  of  jasper, 
streets  of  gold,  gates  of  pearl,  foundation  stones  of  emerald 
and  sapphire,  and  topaz  and  amethyst.  Yes,  they  are  all 
there.  Who  can  look  upon  such  a  scene  and  say  there  is  no 
God  in  heaven?" 

The  two  colors  which  dominate  and  give  character  to  the 
scene  are  the  yellows  and  reds.  They  are  found  in  all  grada- 
tions and  mixtures.  White,  clean,  and  pure,  and  again  weath- 
ered into  dull  grays  and  browns,  forms  a  prominent  part  of 
the  scheme.  Green,  lavender,  and  black  are  found  and  the 
blue  of  the  sky  overhead  adds  an  emphasis  to  the  phenomenal 
scene. 

Geikie,  the  great  geologist  of  England,  has  written: 

"In  the  sunlight  of  the  morning  the  place  is  a  blaze  of 
strange  color,  such  as  one  can  hardly  see  anywhere  save  in 
the  crater  of  an  active  volcano.  But  as  the  dav  wanes,  the 


3 

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G  H 

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D  E   R. 

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shades  of  evening  sinking  gently  into  the  depths,  blend  their 
livid  tints  into  a  strange  mysterious  gloom." 

Kipling  touched  upon  one  of  the  most  beautiful  effects  to 
be  noted  when  he  penned : 

"Evening  crept  through  the  pines  that  shadowed  us,  but 
the  full  glory  of  the  day  flamed  in  that  canon  as  we  went  out 
very  cautiously  to  a  jutting  piece  of  rock — blood  red  or 
pink  it  was — that  overhung  the  deepest  deeps  of  all.  Now 

I  'know    what  it   is  to  sit  en- 
throned  amid  the  clouds   of 
sunset . ' '    The  excavation  of 
this  remarkable  canon  has 
been  accomplished  by  the 
same  agency  operative  in 
other   canons,    namely, 
erosion.    Steam  and  heat 
have    aided  the  usual 
factors  of    erosion 
to  produce  the  high, 
varied,    and   rich 
coloring  with  which 
the  walls  are  em- 
blazoned.      Through 
the  decomposition 
and  disintegration  of  the  rhyolitic  rock  walls  the  usual  sculp- 
tural effects  have  been  greatly  accentuated,  and  in  the  process 
of  decomposition  heat  has  effected  chemical  changes  in  the 
rock  that  have  produced  the  vivid  and  lurid  canon  walls. 

The  magnificent  river  that,  in  a  frenzy  of  white  tinged  with 
the  natural  green  of  the  water,  goes  tearing  over  its  rocky 
bottom  in  a  succession  of  rapids  and  falls,  heightens  the 
grandeur  of  the  scene.  Then,  looking  from  most  of  the  pro- 
jecting angles  of  the  walls  toward  the  head  of  the  canon  the 


At  the  Bottom 
of  the 
Grand  Canon 


PACIFIC 


Lower,  or  Greater,  Fall  adds  a  most  dignified  and  majestic 
presence  to  the  picture. 

Important  adjuncts  are  the  Upper  Fall  and  the  glorious 
rapids  just  above  it.  These  are  less  than  a  mile  above  the 
Lower  Fall  and  are  really  a  part  of  the  canon  proper,  although 
the  word  "grand"  can,  perhaps,  not  justly  be  applied  to  the 
gorge  above  the  Lower  Fall.  The  two  falls,  the  Upper,  112, 
the  Lower  310,  feet  high,  are  as  unlike  as  can  be  imagined. 
The  upper  one  goes  pitching  over  the  brink  in  a  most  exultant 
sort  of  a  way  while  the  other  drops  into  the  chasm  in  a  noble, 
regal  manner,  the  embodiment  of  repose  and  dignity.  Each 
fall  may  be  reached  by  trail  and  road  from  the  Canon  Hotel. 

"Both  of  these  cataracts  deserve  to  be  ranked  among  the 
great  waterfalls  of  the  continent.  Every  great  cascade  has  a 
language  and  an  idea  peculiarly  its  own,  embodied,  as  it  were, 
in  the  flow  of  its  waters.  So  the  Upper  Fall  of  the  Yellowstone 
may  be  said  to  embody  the  idea  of  'momentum'  and  the 
Lower  Fall  of  'gravitation'  ,"  wrote  Lieutenant  Doane,  of  the 
\Vushburn  party,  who  thought  the  Upper  Fall  much  the  finer. 

In  the  Overland  Monthly  for  May,  1871,  Walter  Trumbull, 
also  of  the  Washburn  party,  thus  referred  to  the  Great,  or 
Lower,  Fall: 

"The  volume  of  water  is  about  half  as  great  as  that  which 
passes  over  the  American  Fall,  at  Niagara  and  it  falls 
more  than  twice  the  distance.  The  adjacent  scenery  is 
infinitely  grander.  Having  passed  over  the  precipice,  the 

r,  unbroken,  greenish.  is  in  an  instant  transformed 

by  the  jagged  edges  of  the  precipice,  into  many  streams,  appar- 
ently separated,  yet  still  united,  and  having  the  appearance  of 
molten  silver.  These  streams,  or  jets,  are  shaped  like  a  comet, 
with  nucleus  and  trailing  coma,  following  in  quick  succession; 
or  they  look  like  foaming,  crested  tongues,  constantly  over- 
lapping each  other.  In  the  sunlight,  a  rainbow  constantly 


OUG1  WONDIR^LAND 


Electric  Peak  — 11,155  feet  high— Seen  from  Official  Entrance  at  Gardiner 


1SJ& 


NOR/THER^N      PACIFIC     FLAIL\V 


Two  side  trips  here  are  of 
across  the  new  bridge  at  the 


spans  the  chasm.  The  foot  of  the  falls  is  enveloped  in  mist, 
which  conceals  the  river  for  more  than  a  hundred  yards  below. 
These  falls  are  exactly  the  same  in  height  as  the  Vernal  Falls 
in  the  Yosemite  Valley,  but  the  volume  of  water  is  at  least 
five  times  as  great/' 

particular  interest.       One  is 
rapids    and    down   the    new 
road  to  Artist's  Point,  before 
mentioned.     The  other  is  by 
the  new  road  to  the  summit 
of  Mount   Washburn.     This 
latter    trip    will    occupy    a 
day    and    will    afford    the 
tourist  an  entirely  new  sen- 
sation.    The  road  is  a  fine, 
winding,   mountain    road 
revealing    new    vistas    at 
even'  turn.     The  eastern  and 
northeastern    part  of  the  Park 
a  re   b  r  o  u  g  h  t    into    view   and 
paH°aco!"9the  Yellowstone  Lake  and  the  Three 
Road  Home    Tetons  to  the  south,  and  Electric 
Peak  and  Cinnabar  Mountain  to  the  north,  are  seen.     The 
elevation  is  10,000  feet,  and  the  view  is  quite  unlike  any  other 
in  the  Park  and  opens  to  the  tourist's  vision  an  entirely  new 
region. 

Leaving  the  canon  on  the  return  route  to  Mammoth  Hot 
Springs  the  road  ascends  to  the  plateau  above  the  canon  and 
falls.  It  then  forms  an  artificial  pathway  through  the  pine 
forest,  passing  Virginia  Cascade  and  the  Devil's  Elbow  to 
Xorris  Geyser  Basin,  thence  retracing  the  outbound  road 
to  the  Springs  and  railway.  It  forms  a  quiet  yet  pleasing 
termination  to  the  most  varied  and  unique  trip  in  the  world. 


Northern  Pacific  Railway  Representatives 

Of  the    Passenger,  Immigration  and   Freight  Departments,  are  located  in 'the  leading  cities  of 

the  United  States.  Fur  any  details  with  reference  to  fares,  train  service,  connections,  descriptive 
literature,  or  information  relative  to  the  territory  served  by  its  lines,  or  any  facts  which  will  aid  in 
planning  your  trip,  call  on  or  address 

Aberdeen  and  Hoquiam,  Wash.  221  E. Heron  St..  Aberdeen 

Phone  M   7002  .  .  .  .  M.  H.  Williams General  Agent 

Atlanta,  Ga i  o  North  Pryor  St.  M.  J.  Costello Trav.  Pass.  Agent 

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Home  A  602  A.  N.  Bussing.  .  .  .City  Frt.  &  Pass.  Agt. 

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Phones  Mutual  1346,  Bell  ,338  Gco.    F.    Knight Trav.    Frt.   Agent 

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Kansas  City,  Mo S23   Main  Sreet    .  .  .  H.  B.  Bryning.  .Trav.  Immigration   Agt. 

Lewiston,  Idaho    .  .  '  .   W    J.  Jonui  .  .  .  .Genera1 

Los  Angeles,  Cal.  .  S.   Spring  ;-  W.  McCaskey .General  Agent 

Milwaukee,  Wis.  .  u6-i?  Ry.  Ex.  Bldg.    Phone  M.  1X47-     •     M-  E.  Harlan.  .  . Dist.  Pass.  Agent 

W.    !•'  tl  C.  T.  Noonan Gen.  Agt.  Frt.  Dept. 

Miles  City,  Mont Station        .I.G.Sanders Trav.  Frt.  Agent 

Minneapolis,  Minn.  .  K>  Nicollet  iilk.    Phone  N.  W.  s'>io.     .  .  G.   F.   McNeil! City  Pass.   Agent 

T.  S.  114          J.  C.  Sirnonton.  .  .  .Gen.  Agt.  Fr- . 

Montreal.Que.,  Imp   Bk.  Bg.  S:  .  G.  W.  Hardisty     Dist.  Pass.  &  Frt.  Agt. 

Hew    York    City....  519    Broadway,    Pho:  -;•;....  W.   F.   Mershon.  .Gen.  Agt.   Pass.    Dept. 

C.  F.  Seeger    .     .Gen.     Agt.     Frt.     Dept. 

Philadelphia,  Pa.  .711  Chestn;:  in         .P.  W.  Pummill Dist. Pass.  Agent 

B.    M.  Deck.  Trav.  Frt.  Agent  John  S.  Donal    Gen.  Agi .  Frt.  Dept. 

Pittsburg,  Pa.        .  .  .  505  Park  BMg.,  Phone  Grant    1402      .  .  C.    E.-  Brison Dist.    Pass.    Agent 

B.    A.    11.  Trav     Fr;.    Agent  W.  \V.  Scully Gen.  Agt.  Frt.  Dept. 

Portland,  Ore. Worcester  Blk.,  Phone  M.  5560,  or  A  1941....  F.    H.    Fogart  y  .  .  Asst.   Gen.   Frt.   Agent 

W.  H.  On  i   b  .Trav.  Frt.  Agi-nt 

Pt.  Townsend,  Wash.  .    .  .  ...  .402   \Y:  W   L.  Clark 

Prince  Rupert,  B.  C !     :     gers Agent 

San  Francisco,  Cal 683  Market    St.        .  T.  K.  Stateler Gen.  Agt.  Pas 

E.   H.   Forester.  .   Gen.  Agt.   Frt.   Dept. 
Seattle,  Wash., ist  Ave.  &  Yesler  Way,  Phones  Sunset  Mam 

1430.   Imi.  A.  Tinling. General  Agent 

J.   O.   M,  Mullen City   Pass.   Agent  C.  M  .Asst.  General  Agent 

Spokane,  Wash 701  Sprngite  Ave.,  Main  4365    .  .  .  H.  N.  Kennedy General  Agent 

W.    II.    Ude City    Pass.    Agent  E.   L.   Hanke. Trav.   Frt.  Agent 

Lee    M.    Conry Trav.    Pass. 

St.   Louis,   Mo. ..306   Mo.  Tru  .one    M.    2732  .  ...  D.    B.    Gardner Dist. 

R.    J.    T  [Yav.    Frt.    Agent  R.  K.  ..Gen.    Agt.    Frt.    Dept. 

St.  Paul,  Minn.,. 5th  and  Rob.  c.  ]>.  O'Donneli City  Pass.  Agent 

St.  Paul,   Minn.,  4th  an.;  Phune  N.  W.  2^40.       .  C.   L.  Townsend    Dist.'  Pass.  Agent 

L.   P.   Gellerman Dist.    Pass.   Agent  W   M.Burk Contracting  Frt.  Agent 

F.    A.    Hawlcy Gen.  ;  .-trading  Fn . 

John  Runyon Trav.  Freight  Agent  G.  R.  Merritt Gen.  Agt.  Refrg.  Ser. 

Superior,    Wis..    .  r  Ave.,  Both  Phones  4226      .  .  W.  H.  MitchelK Agent 

Tacoma,   Wash..  925    Pacific    Ave.  C.    B.    Foster City   Pass.  Agent 

ties  Sunset  128,  Home  A  i  2So  Webb  F.   Sater Trav.   Pass.  Agent 

Tacoma,   Wash..  ..  .021    Pacific    Ave.  Henry  Blakeley.  .Gen.  Western  Frt.  Agt. 

R.  T.  Bret/  .   Gen.  W.  Frt.  Agt.  C.  R.  Lonergan Gen.  Agt.  Frt.  Dept. 

E.  W.  Cade    Trav.  Frt.  Agent 

Vancouver,   B.   C 430   Hastings   St.,   Ph. me    M  885        .  H.  Swinford General  Agent 

C.  E.  Lang City  Pass.  Agent 

Victoria,  B.  C.  Yates  and  Government  Sts.,  Phone  M  45<<        .  E.  E.  Blackwood General  Agent 

Wallace,  Idaho Station,  Phones  Bell  20-2,  Ida.   20.  ...  E.  A.  McKenna General  Agent 

Walla  Walla,  Wash ;    E.    Main   St.,  Phone  M  i.  .  .  .  S.  B.  Calderhead General  Agent 

C.  C.  Burdick Trav.  Freight  Agent 

Winnipeg,     Man.  268  Portage     Ave W.  C.  Hartnett General  Agent 

PORTLAND,  ORE.  255  Morr  ,nes  M   244  or  A 

1244....  A.   D.   Charlton.  .Asst.   Gen.   Pass.   Agt. 

ST.  PAUL,   MINN H.   E.   Still Asst.  Gen.  Frt.  Agt. 

Jno.    C.    Poore Asst.  Gen.    Pass.    Agt.  G.   A.   Mitchell A.sst.  Gen.  Frt.  Agt. 

L.  J.  Bricker Gen.  Immigration  Agt.  W.   E    Alair Asst.  Gen.  Frt.  Agt. 

A.  M.  CLELAND,                              J.  G.  WOODWORTH,  J.  B.    BAIRD, 

General  Passenger  Agent                                    Traffic  Manager  General  Freight  Agent 

ST.  PAUL,  MINN.  J;  M.   HANNAFORD.  Second  Vice-president  ST-  PAUL-  M1XN. 
«b                                                                   ST.   PAUL,  MIXX. 


